Lining cloth and method for producing the same

ABSTRACT

A lining cloth of a woven fabric in which the warp yarn comprises either of polyester filamentary yarn or cellulosic filamentary yarn and the filling yarn comprises either a false-twisted polyester filamentary yarn, a raw filamentary yarn or a cellulosic filamentary yarn, characterized in that an elongation in the filling-wise direction of the woven fabric is in a range from 5% to 12%, a coefficient of dynamic friction on the surface of the woven fabric is in a range from 0.20 to 0.45, and a filling-wise crimp index value of the woven fabric as defined by the following formula (1) is in a range from 0.003 to 0.013: 
     
       
         Crimp ratio of the filling yarn/{warp density×(warp fineness) 1/2 }  (1) 
       
     
     The lining cloth according to the present invention is soft in touch, excellent in slipperiness, resistant to seam slippage and free from wearing pressure. The lining cloth is suitably used as a lining for a skirt which is otherwise liable to ride up. 
     The lining cloth according to the present invention is produced by heat-treating a grey fabric woven from warp yarns of polyester filament or cellulosic filament and filling yarns of raw polyester filament at a temperature in a range from 160° C. to 210° C. prior to or after the scouring while being narrowed in width by 5 to 30% relative to the grey fabric.

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a lining cloth having a reduced seamslippage and giving a wearer a less constrained feeling and,specifically, to a slippery lining cloth stretchable in the filling-wise(weft-wise) direction, is soft in touch and excellent in surfacesmoothness, and which is woven from 100% polyester filamentary yarns ormixture of cellulosic filamentary yarns and polyester filamentary yarnsor 100% cellulosic filamentary yarns.

BACKGROUND ART

Nowadays, fibrous materials used for a woven lining cloth are roughlyclassified into a polyester filament type and a cellulosic filamenttype. The lining cloth composed of 100% polyester filamentary yarnsoccupies a share of nearly to 80% in a Japanese market for lining clothbecause of the reasonable cost, high mechanical strength such as atensile strength, bending strength or resistance to wear, excellentlaundry dimensional stability and a smaller change in the appearancethereof in comparison with that composed of 100% cellulosic filamentyarn. The lining cloth composed of 100% cellulosic filament yarns isexcellent in moisture absorption, sweat absorption, antistatic propertyand slipperiness which are not obtainable from the polyester filamenttype lining cloth, and has a good reputation particularly in a field ofhigh-class female dress.

On the other hand, for the purpose of combining merits of the polyesterfilament and those of the cellulosic filament with each other, a liningcloth mixedly woven from these filamentary yarns has been marketed.

Recently, outer cloths used for, dresses have become soft and pliablereflecting a fashion trend to regard wearing comfort of clothes and thesilhouette as important. Also, a soft and pliable lining cloth is indemand and has been marketed this cloth enhances the wearing comfort anddoes not affect the silhouette of the outer cloth.

As means for obtaining such a soft and pliable lining cloth, reducingthe warp/filling density of a woven fabric, using a smaller denierfilament yarns, improving dyeing or finishing process or other methodshave been adopted. Particularly in a lining cloth composed of 100%polyester filament yarns, however, a concentrated sodium hydroxidesolution is used in most of the dyeing and finishing process for thepurpose of weight reduction to give a soft touch. Among the liningcloths obtained through the weight reduction treatment, highlyweight-reduced products of a reduction ratio in a range from about 10 to20% are extremely soft and bulky in touch, and have been favorably usedas a high-class lining cloth.

Softening of touch due to the weight reduction treatment is a method forthinning polyester filaments through hydrolization with an alkalisolution. Therefore, a gap is created between warp yarns and fillingyarns forming the woven fabric as well as between multi-filamentscomposing the respective warp yarn and the respective filling yarn ofthe woven fabric. The improvement in softness and bulkiness in touch ofthe woven fabric is necessarily accompanied with the reduction intensile rigidity, bending rigidity or shearing rigidity of the wovenfabric. Although such a highly weight-reduced lining cloth is soft intouch, it has a drawback in that warp yarns and filling yarns composingthe cloth is easily mobile when a large tensile or shearing force isapplied thereto, for example, during the wear thereof. This causes apractical problem in that seam slippage is liable to occur when thiscloth is worn as a dress. In this respect, “seam slippage” is referredto as a phenomenon in that warp yarns or filling yarns slip out of placeabout the seam when a stress is applied to the seam of the woven fabricand causing bursting of seam in an extreme case.

A typical example of dresses wherein the seam slippage is actuallyliable to occur is a tight skirt for a female. In the tight skirt, a“kise (phonetic)” (fullness work) hardly exists in a sewn lining clothfor a tight skirt for the purpose of obtaining a good touch wherebythere is little room in the lining cloth for a body dimension. Also,since the tight skirt is subjected to a relatively large motion duringwalking or sitting, the seam tends to stretch and slip off. Acountermeasure against the seam slippage is an increase in density ofwarp/filling yarns and an increase in the coefficient of interfiberfriction by the use of an anti-slip agent. However, the increase indensity of warp/filling yarns deteriorates the softness of touch, andthe effect of the anti-slip agent is not permanent but temporary, whichdisappears when the cloth is rinsed.

The present inventors have carried out various analysis of hundreds ofouter cloths and typical lining cloths now on market for the purpose ofproviding lining cloths soft in touch and excellent in anti-seamslippage performance to discover why the conventional lining cloth usedfor a skirt is liable to generate seam-slippage, and have obtained thefollowing knowledge:

According to the measurement of a filling-wise elongation of a wovenfabric composing the outer cloth and the lining cloth, respectively, ata tensile stress of 500 g/cm, it has been found that most of the outercloths have an elongation of approximately 10%, while that of the liningcloths is at most approximately 3%. From this, it is apparent that if adress wherein the outer cloth is lined with the lining cloth isstretched to some extent, a stress generated in the outer cloth issmall, but a stress in the lining cloth is much larger. In this regard,the weakest region, against a stress generated in the lining cloth, is aseam, whereby it is suggested that the seam slippage would occur whenthe cloth is stretched.

For example, since the lining cloth in a hip portion of the skirt issewn in the warp-wise direction of the outer cloth, the slippage of awarp-wise seam occurs due to a filling-wise stress. Particularly, sinceyarns are easily mobile in the weave structure in a lining cloth whichhas been subjected to a weight reduction treatment with alkaline for thepurpose of softening a touch thereof, the seam slippage would besignificant.

Accordingly, it is deemed that if the lining cloth has a filling-wiseelongation equal to that of the outer cloth, the seam slippage anddeterioration of the silhouette of the outer cloth do not occur.

The design of a filling-wise elongation of the conventional lining clothis deemed erroneous because there is a mis-match in a stress between thelining cloth and the outer cloth, which would be apparent from a fact inthat, when the wearer of a short tight skirt sits down on a chair or aseat of a train, the skirt is abnormally dragged up.

Examples of a woven fabric composed of 100% polyester yarns aredisclosed, for instance, in Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication(Kokai) No. 53-130363 and Japanese Examined Patent Publication (Kokoku)Nos. 58-115144 and 1-21261, wherein false-twisted yarns are used asfilling yarns so that a filling-wise elongation of 15% or more isobtained. A woven fabric disclosed in Japanese Unexamined PatentPublication (Kokai) No. 53-130363 uses false-twisted yarns producedunder specially defined conditions so that a rough surface texture ismitigated while achieving a high elongation of 15% or more. However,this fabric has a surface irregularity due to the false-twisted fillingyarns having a significant bending configuration which bulge out of thefabric surface rather than warp yarns, whereby the fabric has a roughtouch and a large bulkiness while it lacks the slipperiness necessaryfor the lining cloth. Thus, this fabric is low in dressing convenienceand in wearing comfort.

Japanese Examined Patent Publication (Kokoku) No. 1-21261 relates to afinishing method for a woven fabric for obtaining a filling-wiseelongation of 15% or more. However, the resultant fabric is alsounsuitable for a lining cloth because of its rough touch.

Japanese Examined Patent Publication (Kokoku) No. 58-115144 relates to awoven fabric having an elongation of 15% or more both in the warp-wiseand filling-wise directions as well as a rough surface texture. While,Japanese Examined Patent Publication (Kokoku) No. 7-78283 proposes alining cloth having a favorable pliability (soft and bulky touch) andslipperiness while using raw polyester filament as filling yarns. Thelining cloth has a filling-wise elongation of 4% or less which suggeststhat this lining cloth would have no effect an preventing the seam fromslipping or mitigating a constrained feel as apparent from theabove-mentioned knowledge.

As described hereinabove, there are no lining cloths of a woven fabricin the prior art having a suitable elongation in the filling-wisedirection made by using raw polyester filamentary yarns or cellulosicfilamentary yarns as filling yarns.

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

An object of the present invention is to provide a lining cloth composedof filamentary yarns, having the improved functions necessary for alining cloth; excellent in softness, slipperiness, good touch; and notgiving a wearer a constrained feeling.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a lining clothhaving the above-mentioned improved functions necessary for-a liningcloth composed of 100% polyester filamentary yarns, composed of mixedlywoven polyester filamentary yarns and cellulosic filamentary yarns, andcomposed of 100% cellulosic filamentary yarns.

Further important object of the present invention is to provide a methodfor producing a lining cloth having the above-mentioned improvedfunctions necessary for the lining cloth, obtained from a woven fabricof filamentary yarns including that of 100% polyester filamentary yarns,of mixedly woven polyester filamentary yarns and cellulosic filamentaryyarns and of 100% cellulosic filamentary yarns.

The present inventors have made the invention based on theabove-mentioned knowledge in that the filling-wise elongation of thewoven fabric composed of the lining cloth is largely related to theperformance of the lining cloth and, therefore, by suitably selecting acrimp ratio of the filling yarn constituting the woven fabric, it ispossible to obtain a lining cloth of filamentary yarns of the presentinvention.

That is, these objects of the present invention are achievable by alining cloth comprising a woven fabric in which the warp yarn compriseseither polyester filamentary yarn or cellulosic filamentary yarn and thefilling yarn comprises either a false-twisted polyester filamentaryyarn, a raw filamentary yarn or a cellulosic filamentary yarn,characterized in that an elongation in the filling-wise direction of thewoven fabric is in a range from 5% to 12%, a coefficient of dynamicfriction on the surface of the woven fabric is in a range from 0.20 to0.45, and a filling-wise crimp index value of the woven fabric, asdefined by the following formula, is in a range from 0.003 to 0.013:

Crimp ratio of filling yarn/{warp density×(warp fineness)^(1/2)}  (1)

The lining cloth according to the present invention may be of any weavewidely used as a woven fabric for a lining cloth, such as a plain weave,a twill weave or a satin weave.

The lining cloth according to the present invention can be produced by amethod comprising the steps of narrowing a grey woven fabric prior todyeing and either before or after scouring, at a narrowing ratio in arange from 5% to 30% of the width of the grey fabric woven from theabove-identified filamentary yarn as a warp yarn and either afalse-twisted polyester filamentary yarn or a raw polyester filamentaryyarn as a filling yarn, and heat-setting the narrowed fabric at atemperature in a range from 160° C. to 210° C.

Alternatively, in a case where a grey fabric is woven of theabove-mentioned yarn as the warp yarn and a cellulosic filamentary yarnas the filling yarn, the lining cloth of the invention can be producedby a method comprising heat-setting, prior to dyeing, the grey fabric ata narrowing ratio in a range from 5 to 15% at a temperature of from 100°C. to 210° C. at a condition where the grey fabric in unscoured state iswetted with water.

The narrowing ratio is defined by the following formula:

Narrowing ratio (%)={(width of grey fabric−width of narrowedfabric)/width of grey fabric}×100

According to the present invention, by the heat-setting while narrowingthe fabric width as defined above, it is possible to construct a weavestructure highly increased in a warp density and in the number of crimpsof the filling yarn by the filling-wise contraction of the fabric,whereby the resultant lining cloth exhibits an improved performance suchas a reduced seam slippage, favorable softness, comfortable slipperinessas well as free from constrained feeling.

The filling-wise elongation, the coefficient of dynamic friction, thecrimp ratio, the warp density, the warp fineness, the bending rigidityof the lining cloth used in the present invention are measured inaccordance with the following methods on the finished fabric obtainedafter the dyeing and finishing treatment.

(1) Filling-wise Elongation

A tensile test of a fabric sample of 20 cm×20 cm size was carried out ona KES-FB1 available from Katoh Tec. K.K. (phonetic) wherein the sampleis stretched at a tensile speed of 0.2 mm/sec in the filling-wisedirection and an elongation S (%) at a tensile stress of 500 g/cm isdetermined by the following formula:

S=(A/B)×100

wherein A represents an elongated length (cm) at a tensile stress of 500g/cm and B represents an original length (20 cm) of the fabric sample.

(2) Coefficient of Dynamic Friction

A friction test of the lining cloth was carried out by KES-SE availablefrom Katoh Tec. K.K. (phonetic) wherein a frictional slider of 25 gweight having a frictional surface of 1 cm×1 cm size to which isattached a scoured cotton cloth of a plain weave No. 3 of shirtingslides on a surface of the lining cloth fixed on a flat table at a speedof 5 cm/min. From a frictional resistance obtained by this test, acoefficient of dynamic friction (μ) is determined via the followingformula:

μ=A/B

wherein A represents a mean value (g) of the measured frictionalresistance and B represents a weight of the slider (g). In this regard,the coefficient of dynamic friction of the lining cloth is an average ofthe measured value obtained when the slider slides in the warp-wisedirection of the lining cloth and that obtain when sliding in thefilling-wise direction.

(3) Crimp Ratio of Filling Yarn

The crimp ratio of a filling yarn was obtained in the following manner.A piece of a filling yarn is extracted from a portion of a woven fabricon which is marked a 20 cm length in the filling-wise direction, whichthen is loaded with a weight of 0.1 g/d and a length (S cm) thereof ismeasured. The crimp ratio is calculated by the following formula:

Crimp ratio of filling yarn (%)={(S−20)/20}×100

(4) Warp Density (End/Inch)

A warp density was determined by counting the number of warp yarns inone inch width of the woven fabric.

(5) Fineness of Warp Yarn (Warp Fineness)

A fineness of a warp yarn was determined by measuring a weight W (g) oftwo samples of warp yarn having a length of 90 cm under a load of 0.1g/d, which was then calculated from the following formula:

Fineness of warp yarn (denier)=W×900000/180

(6) Filling-wise Bending Rigidity of Woven Fabric

A filling-wise bending rigidity of a woven fabric was determined byusing KES-FB2 available from Katoh Tec. K.K. (phonetic) wherein a sampleof a woven fabric in a size of 20 cm in the warp-wise direction ×20 cmin the filling-wise direction is grasped so that an effective samplelength of 20 cm in the warp-wise direction and 1 cm in the filling-wisedirection is obtained, which is then bent under the condition of themaximum curvature of ±2.5 cm⁻¹ and the bending speed of 0.50 cm⁻¹. Adifference between bending moments per unit width (gf·cm/cm) at thecurvatures of +0.5 cm⁻¹ and +1.5 cm⁻¹ (front side bending) was dividedby the curvature (1 cm⁻¹) to result in a value (gf·cm²/cm). This valueis averaged with a similar value (gf·cm²/cm) obtained from a differencebetween bending moments per unit width (gf·cm/cm) at the curvatures of−0.5 cm⁻¹ and −1.5 cm⁻¹ (back side bending) divided by the curvature (1cm⁻¹).

The present invention will be described in more detail below.

To obtain a lining cloth which is an object of the present inventionhaving reduced seam slippage, freedom from the constrained feel andexcellent in surface smoothness, the lining cloth must be a woven fabricwhich is designed to have the filling-wise elongation and thecoefficient of dynamic friction of the surface thereof in theabove-identified range. That is, the filling-wise elongation of thelining cloth according to the present invention is preferably in a rangefrom 5% to 12%, more preferably from 6% to 10%. As described before, anouter cloth generally has a filling-wise elongation in a range from 5%to 10% order. Contrarily, the conventional lining cloth has thefilling-wise elongation of less than 3%. When a dress is practically puton, the lining cloth and the outer cloth are extended in accordance withthe elongation of skin, during which a stress is liable to concentrateon lining cloth having a smaller filling-wise elongation, which causesthe seam slippage and imparts a constrained feeling to the wearer. Ifthe filling-wise elongation is less than 5%, it is impossible to absorbthe stress applied to the lining cloth to result in seam slippage when,for example, sitting down or crouching while wearing a skirt. Also,since the wearing pressure becomes higher due to the tensile stressapplied to the lining cloth, the constrained feel could not bemitigated.

If the filling-wise elongation is less than 5%, a hem of the liningcloth for the skirt rides up together with the outer cloth due to thestress applied to the lining cloth to deteriorate the wear comfort. Onthe contrary, a lining cloth having a filling-wise elongation exceeding12% is free from the problem of seam slippage, but has an irregularsurface for the sake of crimps of the filling yarn, which lower theslipperiness to worsen the wearing comfort. Such a lining cloth feelsharsh due to the crimp of the filling yarn, particularly when the liningcloth is rubbed in the warp-wise direction, or has a bulky and/or harshtouch, both of which deteriorate the silhouette of the outer cloth.

To satisfy the requirement for slipperiness (smoothness) of the surfaceof the lining cloth according to the present invention, it is necessaryfor the coefficient of dynamic friction of the surface of the liningcloth to be in a range from 0.20 to 0.45. A preferable range of thecoefficient of dynamic friction is variable in accordance with weavestructures, for example, in a range from 0.22 to 0.45 in a plain weave;from 0.20 to 0.38 in a twill weave; and from 0.20 to 0.35 in a satinweave.

In the twill and satin weaves, since more warp yarns are exposed outsidethe filling yarns on the fabric surface than in the plain weave, theeffect of the crimp of the filling yarn is less when the lining cloth isrubbed in the warp-wise direction, whereby the warp-wise frictionalcoefficient becomes smaller as defined above.

Since the lining cloth is too slippery if the frictional coefficient isless than 0.20, there may be a trouble when the wearer sits down on achair or others in that the hem of the skirt easily slip relative to anouter cloth, a skin or a panty stocking, or the body is liable to slideon the chair. On the other hand, if the dynamic frictional coefficientis more than 0.45, the lining cloth is not slippery relative to a skinor a panty stocking to reduce the convenience of a skirt and deterioratethe touch. When such a lining cloth is used for a jacket or a coat, itis poor in slipperiness relative to a blouse, a dress shirt or a jacketworn under the coat to worsen the wear comfort.

According to the present invention, to balance the filling-wiseelongation and the slipperiness of the lining cloth to each other andsatisfy the soft touch and the mechanical property of the lining clothagainst the frictional force (such as against the migration or frayingof the filling yarn), a filling-wise crimp index value of woven fabricdefined by the following formula (1) should be selected to be in aspecified range. As is apparent from this formula, the filling-wisecrimp index value of woven fabric is a parameter for identifying asurface structure of a lining cloth in relation to a filling-wiseelongation of the fabric and a cover factor of warp yarn (a ratio of anarea of the warp yarns to a total area of the fabric surface).

Crimp ratio of filling yarn/{(warp density×(warp fineness)^(1/2)}  (1)

Preferably, the lining cloth according to the present invention isdesigned to have a filling wise crimp index value of woven fabric in arange from 0.003 to 0.013. The preferable filling wise crimp index isvariable in accordance with weave structures; for example, in a rangefrom 0.004 to 0.013 in a plain weave; from 0.003 to 0.0011 in a twillweave; and from 0.003 to 0.009 in a satin weave. If the filling-wisecrimp index value is less than 0.003, either the crimp ratio of thefilling yarn would be extremely small or the warp density or the warpfineness would be large even though the crimp ratio of the filling yarnis large. In the former case, a lining cloth is obtained which isnothing but one having a small filling-wise elongation. In the lattercase, the resultant lining cloth is not one soft in touch but is onehard in touch because the cover factor of the warp yarn is excessivelylarge. In this case, since the cover factor of the warp yarn is so largethat the filling yarns are constrained by the warp yarns even though acrimp shape of the filling yarn is large, a desirable filling-wiseelongation is not attainable. If the crimp index value exceeds 0.013,there would be assumed either a case wherein the crimp ratio of thefilling yarn is large or a case wherein the warp density or the warpfineness is small. In such cases, the cover factor of the warp yarn isso small that the fabric structure in which the filling yarns areextremely slack is formed. Accordingly, the lining cloth lacks surfacesmoothness when it is exposed to a warp-wise frictional force andexhibits a harsh feel. Also, due to the small cover factor of the warpyarns, this lining cloth is defective in that the filling yarn is liableto migrate and fray when subjected to a warp-wise frictional force.

In addition, the lining cloth according to the present inventionpreferably has a filling-wise bending rigidity of 0.030 gf·cm²/cm orless. If the filling-wise bending rigidity exceeds 0.030 gf·cm²/cm, thetouch of the lining cloth is extremely hard. Particularly, the liningcloth of the present invention has a filling-wise elongation in a rangefrom 5% to 12%, which means that, while the crimp ratio of filling yarn(meandering of filling yarn) is large, the filling yarn is liable tofray. Therefore, it is necessary for the lining cloth according to thepresent invention to have a larger warp density than that of theconventional lining cloth having a filling-wise elongation of less than3% so that the warp-wise cover factor becomes larger. As a result, thewarp-wise bending rigidity becomes larger.

To achieve the softness suitable for the lining cloth, the filling-wisebending rigidity should be 0.030 gf·cm²/cm or less.

If the filling-wise bending rigidity is 0.003 gf·cm²/cm or less, thelining cloth is too soft and liable to stick to an inner clothing on theskin side, which deteriorates the wear comfort. Preferably, thefilling-wise bending rigidity is 0.025 gf·cm²/cm or less when afalse-twisted polyester filamentary yarn is used as a filling yarn ofthe lining cloth. Such a lining cloth is soft in touch and does notdamage the silhouette of the outer cloth. When a raw polyesterfilamentary yarn is used as a filling yarn of the lining cloth, thebending rigidity is more preferably 0.020 gf·cm²/cm or less. While theadjustment of the filling-wise bending rigidity in the lining clothwherein the raw polyester filamentary yarn is used as a filling yarnwill be described later in more detail, the filling-wise elongation andthe filling-wise bending rigidity are adjustable into theabove-mentioned range by suitably selecting a raw polyester filamentaryyarn which is easy to bend as a filling yarn. In the lining clothwherein a cellulosic filamentary yarn is used as a filling yarn, thebending rigidity is preferably 0.030 gf·cm²/cm or less.

By using the lining cloth of the present invention, it is possible tomanufacture a dress having an anti-seam slippage performance as well asan excellent wear comfort without providing the “kise” (fullness work)which is necessary in the conventional lining cloth. The “kise” isprovided for the purpose of improving the wear comfort, which is formedby cutting a lining cloth in a size somewhat larger than the matingouter cloth and folding the former along a line closer to a seam line sothat the lining cloth is superfluous relative to the outer cloth.However, according to the lining cloth of the present invention, it ispossible to eliminate such a “kise” because the lining cloth isstretchable in the filling-wise direction to improve the wear comfortand prevent the seam from slipping. Since there is no need for providingthe “kise” when the lining cloth according to the present invention isused, as stated above, the operation for folding the lining cloth alonga line closer to the seam line during the sewing process becomesunnecessary to simplify the same.

Any of a plain weave, a twill weave, a satin weave or an other may beadopted as a weave of the lining cloth of the present invention inaccordance with the application fields and the required qualities of thelining cloth. For example, as for a woman's dress, a plain weave isfavorably used because a thin and soft touch is preferable.

Polyester filamentary yarn used for the warp yarn of lining clothaccording to the present invention includes a fiber from fiber-formingpolyester polymer including homopolymer such as polyethyleneterephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate or polytrimethyleneterephthalate, or copolymer of these polymers. Additives may be added tothe filament if necessary, such as an antistatic agent, heat stabilizer,flame-retardant, light stabilizer or titanium oxide. A cross-sectionalshape of the filament is not limited but may include a circle, apolygon, such as a triangle, an L-shape, a Y-shape, a T-shape, amulti-lobal shape, a hollow shape, a flat shape or an indefinite shape.

The cellulosic filament used for the warp yarn includes cupra-ammoniumrayon, viscose rayon, polynosic rayon and acetate filament.

The polyester or cellulosic filamentary yarn used as the warp yarn has atotal fineness in a range from 30 to 120 deniers (d), preferably from 50to 100 d. A fineness of single filament thereof may not be limited butis in a range from 0.5 to 10 d, preferably from 0.5 to 5 d.

The warp yarn is most preferably a non-twisted raw yarn (flat yarn). Toenhance the cohesiveness of the yarn, however, the filament yarn may belightly twisted (for example, approximately in a range from 10 to 200T/M), or may be subjected to an interlacing treatment or a texturizingtreatment such as false-twisting or air-jet processing. To obtain aspecial surface appearance or touch, a hard-twisted yarn may be used asa warp yarn.

A warp yarn used for the lining cloth of the present invention may be afalse-twisted polyester filamentary yarn, a raw polyester filamentaryyarn or a cellulosic filamentary yarn. While any combinations of fibermaterials are allowable between the warp yarn and the filling yarn inthe lining cloth, typical combinations thereof are as follows:

(1) The warp yarn is a 100% raw polyester filamentary yarn, and thefilling yarn is either a 100% false-twisted polyester filamentary yarnor a 100% raw polyester filamentary yarn or a 100% cellulosicfilamentary yarn.

(2) The warp yarn is a 100% cellulosic filamentary yarn, and the fillingyarn is either a 100% false-twisted polyester filamentary yarn or a 100%raw polyester filamentary yarn or a 100% cellulosic filamentary yarn.

(3) The warp yarn is a polyester filamentary yarn land a cellulosicfilamentary yarn, and the filling yarn is either a 100% false-twistedpolyester filamentary yarn or a 100% raw polyester filamentary yarn or a100% cellulosic filamentary yarn. More concretely, one or two polyesterfilamentary yarns and one or two cellulosic filamentary yarns arealternately arranged in the warp yarns. However, the arrangement and/orratio thereof in the warp yarns is optional.

(4) The warp yarn is a 100% polyester filamentary yarn, and the fillingyarn is a combination of a false-twisted polyester filamentary yarn, araw polyester filamentary yarn or a cellulosic filamentary yarn, whereinthe arrangement and/or ratio thereof is optional.

(5) The warp yarn is a 100% cellulosic filamentary yarn, and the fillingyarn is a combination of a false-twisted polyester filamentary yarn, araw polyester filamentary yarn or a cellulosic filamentary yarn, whereinthe arrangement and/or ratio thereof is optional.

Any one of the above-mentioned combinations (1) to (5) of warp andfilling yarns may be suitably selected in accordance with a type or aportion of a dress to which the lining cloth is applied or a demand forthe lining cloth (for example, whether the dress is rinsed with water orsubjected to a dry-cleaning). For instance, when the lining cloth isused for a dress which is inexpensive and easy-care (resistant todimensional change and creases due to water rinsing) or repeatedly worn,a combination of 100% polyester filamentary yarn as a warp yarn and 100%false-twisted polyester filamentary yarn or 100% raw polyesterfilamentary yarn as a filling yarn is preferable. On the other hand, inan expensive dress required to have wearing comfort (for example,moisture absorption/release or antistatic property) and a drapability, acombination of 100% cellulosic filamentary yarns both in warp andfilling yarns is preferable.

BEST MODES FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

The preferred methods for producing the lining cloths according to thepresent invention will be described in detail below in view of types offilling yarns used therefor.

[1] A Lining Cloth Wherein a False-twisted Polyester Filamentary Yarn isUsed as a Filling Yarn

There is no limitation in the false-twisted polyester filamentary yarnused as a filament yarn. The filling yarn may be a conventionalfalse-twisted yarn produced in an industrial manner. For instance, sucha false-twisted yarn includes those obtained from a spindle system, acircumferential friction system and a nip-belt friction system. There isno limitation in the false-twisting conditions, and either asingle-heater system or a double-heater system may be adopted. While acrimpability of the false-twisted yarn is largely relied on the numberof false twist, a temperature of a first theater and/or a second heater,a feed rate of the second heater or others, these conditions areoptionally selectable.

On the other hand, the false-twisted yarn used as a filling yarn may besubjected to an interlacing treatment and/or a twisting treatment forthe purpose of enhancing the cohesiveness thereof. Also, there is nolimitation in kinds of raw yarns used for the false-twisting treatment,provided they are made of-fiber-forming polyester polymer such aspolyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polytrimetyleneterephthalate or others. These yarns include a drawn yarn, a partiallyoriented yarn or an undrawn yarn obtained by a conventional spinningmethod, and those obtained by a high speed spinning method or aspin-draw takeup method. The polyester polymer referred to hereinincludes not only homopolymers but also copolymers. The filamentary yarnmay contain additives such as an antistatic agent, a flame resistant, aheat resistant, a light resistant, titanium oxide or others. Across-sectional shape of the filament may not be limited but includes acircle, a triangle, an L-shape, a Y-shape, a T-shape, a polygon, amulti-lobal shape, a hollow shape, a flat shape or an indefinite shape.

To facilitate both of filling-wise elongation and surface smoothness ofthe lining cloth, a treatment is necessary, as described before, forshrinking the fabric structure by the crimp development of thefalse-twisted yarn while constraining the warp yarns and the fillingyarns. That is, after weaving and either prior to or after the scouring,a grey fabric is subjected to a narrowing treatment simultaneously witha heat-setting while being stretched both in the filling-wise andwarp-wise directions, whereby the development of crepe orpebbled-surface effect is restricted to result in a lining cloth of asmooth surface having a filling-wise elongation in a range from 5% to12%.

In other words, after a fabric has been woven from polyester orcellulosic filamentary warp yarns and false-twisted polyesterfilamentary filling yarns, by heat-setting the fabric at a temperaturein a range from 160 to 210° C. prior to or after being scoured whilenarrowing a width thereof by 5 to 15% in comparison with that of a greyfabric, a lining cloth having a structure and a performance defined bythe present invention is obtainable.

The 5 to 15% narrowing heat-setting results in the increase in adifference between a warp density as designed upon weaving and that ofthe finished fabric. According to the inventive method, upon thenarrowing treatment, the warp-wise shrinkage is restricted to within 5%so that the increase in weft density is suppressed to as small a valueas possible, namely so that the tensioned state is at a higher level inthe warp-wise direction than in the filling-wise direction. As a result,fabric shrinkage accompanied with an increase in warp density isachievable.

The narrowing treatment is carried out, for example, by using a pintenter which is widely used for the heat-setting of a woven fabric,wherein a grey fabric is heat-treated while maintaining the widththereof narrower than the original and tensioning the fabric in thewarp-wise direction. A narrowing ratio should be in a range from 5% to15%. The preferable range is variable in accordance with whether thefalse-twisted filling yarn is a false-twisted yarn obtained by asingle-heater type apparatus or a double-heater type apparatus. This isbecause there is a difference between a dry heat shrinkage inherent tothe respective false-twisted yarn and that due to the development ofcrimps. When the false-twisted yarn of the double-heater type is used,the narrowing ratio is preferably in a range from 5 to 10%. When thefalse-twisted yarn of the single-heater type is used, the narrowingratio is preferably in a range from 7 to 15%. If the heat treatment iscarried out at a narrowing ratio of less than 5%, it is impossible toobtain a fabric defined by the present invention because the shrinkageof fabric structure is too small to result in the desired filling-wiseelongation. On the other hand, if the heat treatment is carried out at anarrowing ratio of 15% or more, the fabric is not tensioned but heat-setin a slackened state, which causes the generation of creases, surfaceundulations or curving of filling yarns.

By the heat treatment of a grey fabric in the present invention, crimpsin the false-twisted yarn in the fabric develop under tension and, atthe same time, the developing crimps are heat-set. If the false-twistedyarn is not sufficiently heat-set by this heat treatment, the shrinkageof the fabric structure would occur due to the crimp development duringa post process subsequent to the heat treatment (for example, scouringor dyeing process). Consequently, a lining cloth with pebbled-surfaceeffect results, which is poor in slipperiness, and has a harsh and bulkytouch. The surface pebbled-surface effect generated at this time doesnot completely disappear even if the fabric is heat-treated in atensioned state in the last finishing process. A temperature at whichthe crimp development and the heat-setting are completely performed ispreferably in a range from 160° C. to 210° C., more preferably from 180°C. to 200° C. If the heat-treatment temperature is lower than 160° C.,the crimp development and the heat-setting of the false-twisted yarn isinsufficient and the crimp develops again in the scouring or dyeingprocess subsequent thereto to result in a lining cloth rich in surfacepebbled-surface effect and poor in surface smoothness. Contrarily, ifthe temperature exceeds 210° C., fibers composing in the fabric areliable to be largely damaged to deteriorate the mechanical property ofthe lining cloth and cause the touch thereof to be hard.

A heat-treatment time duration is selected so that the crimp developmentand the heat-setting of the false-twisted polyester filamentary yarnused is completely achievable. If the heat-treatment temperature ishigher, the heat-treatment time duration is shorter in view of thedamage to fibers, while if the heat-treatment temperature is lower, theheat-treatment time duration is longer to that extent. Theheat-treatment time duration is preferably in a range from 15 seconds to60 seconds at a temperature in a range from 180° C. to 200° C.

Any means may be adopted for carrying out the above-mentioned heattreatment provided it processes the fabric in a tensioned state.Typically, a heat setter of a pin tenter type, which has a plurality ofpins on the opposite side thereof and is widely used for the heattreatment of conventional woven fabrics, is favorable.

The scouring process referred to in this text is a process for removing,after the weaving process, spinning oil or sizing agent adhering to thewoven fabric, wherein water or aqueous solution containing water, asurfactant and an alkaline is used as a treatment liquid. Any method maybe used for carrying out the scouring process. Any apparatus widely usedfor scouring woven fabric may be adopted for this purpose, including anopen soaper type continuous scouring apparatus, a liquid-stream typedyeing machine, a suspension-in-bath type continuous processor, a wincetype dyeing machine and a Sofsa (phonetic) scouring apparatus.

When the scouring process is carried out on a woven fabric which hasbeen heat-treated at a temperature in a range from 160° C. to 210° C.while being narrowed in width by 5% to 15% of the original width so thatcrimps of the false-twisted yarn in the woven fabric are heat-set priorto the scouring process, the liquid-stream type dyeing machine or thewince type dyeing machine excellent in relaxation effect may be adoptedto obtain a lining cloth according to the present invention. Contrarily,when a woven fabric is heat-treated after having been processed by sucha scouring apparatus excellent in relaxation effect, it is impossible toobtain a lining cloth as defined by the present invention because crimpsof the false-twisted yarn develop in a large extent by the relaxation.

When the scouring process is carried out prior to the narrowingheat-treatment, an apparatus capable of applying tension to the wovenfabric both in the warp-wise and filling-wise directions, such as anopen soaper type continuous scouring apparatus, is preferably adopted.If an apparatus in which no tension is applied to the woven fabric bothin the warp-wise and filling-wise directions is adopted for carrying outthe scouring process, such as a liquid-stream type dyeing machine or asuspension-in-bath type continuous processor, unfavorablepebbled-surface effect might occur in the processed fabric. Even in thescouring process using the open soaper type continuous scouringapparatus, the treatment temperature is preferably as low as in a rangefrom 40° C. to 60° C. for the purpose of restricting the crimpdevelopment to as low as possible. In this case, the removal of spinningoil or sizing agent adhered to the warp yarns may be insufficient. Ifso, the scouring process may be repeated after the narrowingheat-treatment.

The narrowing heat treatment is preferably carried out prior to thescouring process, whereby the lining cloth according to the presentinvention would be favorably obtainable. Such a sequence is advantageousin that any apparatus cited above may be adopted in the scouring processcarried out later to achieve the object of the present invention. Inaddition thereto, the resultant lining cloth is excellent in surfacesmoothness as well as being less bulky in touch.

Subsequent to the heat treatment according to the present invention, adyeing/finishing process, which is conventional in the production oflining cloth, is added. If a softer touch is desired, an alkaline weightreduction treatment may be carried out prior to the dyeing. The liningcloth of the present invention is free from seam slippage when actuallyworn even though the alkaline weight reduction treatment is carried out,because of the filling-wise elongation.

The dyeing process on the lining cloth, according to the presentinvention, composed of 100% polyester filamentary yarns may be carriedout in accordance with that for the conventional lining cloth composedof polyester filamentary yarns. In the dyeing process, a liquid-streamtype dyeing machine, a jigger dyeing machine, a beam dyeing machine anda wince dyeing machine are preferably used. Of them, the liquid-streamtype dyeing machine is more favorable in view of the grade of the dyedproduct. The finishing process may be carried out in accordance withthat for the conventional lining cloth composed of polyester filamentaryyarns. Care must be taken in the widening heat treatment in the lastfinishing process by a pin tenter or the like for eliminating creases.In this treatment, if a width-increasing ratio is too large, theresultant lining cloth would have a lower filling-wise elongationcompared to the desired value. The widened width is preferably larger,for example, by approximately in a range from 1 cm to 3 cm than theafter-dyed width to solely eliminate creases. During the finishingprocess, a finishing agent such as anti-static agent, water repellent orsweat absorber may be optionally added. Also, to improve the luster,smoothness or touch of the surface of the woven fabric, a calendaringtreatment may optionally be carried out.

The dyeing/finishing process of a lining cloth of a mixedly woven fabriccomprising cellulosic filamentary yarns and false-twisted polyesterfilamentary yarns is carried out by initially scouring a grey fabric anddyeing a polyester component thereof as described above, and then dyeinga cellulosic component which may be carried out by the same dyeingmachine as used for dyeing the polyester component, or by a cold padbatch method, a pad steam method or a jigger method.

The finishing process subsequent to the dyeing may optionally include aresin treatment usually used in the conventional process for thecellulosic fiber product for improving laundry shrinkage and frictionfastness under wet conditions.

(2) A Lining Cloth Wherein a Raw Polyester Filamentary Yarn is Used as aFilling Yarn

A preferable method for producing a lining cloth will be describedwherein a raw polyester filamentary yarn is used as a filling yarn.

Such a lining cloth using a raw polyester filamentary yarn (flat yarn)as a filling yarn is softer in touch, improved in surface smoothness,less bulky in feeling as well as better in slipperiness.

This method is based on a principle in that the method would be possibleto enhance structural shrinkage of a fabric effecting filling-wiseelongation of the fabric under narrowing heat treatment by increasing acrimp ratio of the filling yarn in the structure of as-woven fabric(grey fabric), which inherently contributes to the filling-wiseelongation and weakens the interlacing force between the warp andfilling yarn.

The crimp ratio of the filling yarn in the grey fabric is necessarily1.5% or more, preferably 2% or more. In this regard, the crimp ratio ofa raw polyester filamentary filling yarn in the conventional liningcloth was 1% or less. The lining cloth of the present invention isobtainable by using an easily-bendable raw filamentary yarn capable ofattaining the crimp ratio of the filling yarn of 1.5% or more in a greyfabric which is then subjected to a narrowing heat treatment in a rangefrom 5% to 30%.

If the fabric using the easily-bendable raw yarn as a filling yarn isheat-treated at a temperature in a range from 160° C. to 210° C. eitherprior to or after the scouring, while narrowing the width thereof by 5to 30%, regular and rigid crimps are formed in the filling yarn tocontribute to a high filling-wise elongation.

Also, since the raw yarn is used as a filling yarn, there is neither aharsh touch nor insufficient slipperiness when a hand is slid on afabric surface in the warp-wise direction.

The narrowing heat treatment in a range from 5% to 30% causes the largedifference in warp density between the grey fabric and the finishedfabric. According to the method of the present invention, the greyfabric having the crimp ratio of 1.5% or more is subjected to thenarrowing treatment under the condition wherein the warp-wise shrinkageis restricted to be 5% or less i.e., without substantial increase of thefilling yarn density so that the tensioned state is maintained in thewarp-wise direction rather than in the filling-wise direction, resultingin the structural shrinkage of fabric caused by the increase in warpdensity.

The narrowing treatment according to the present invention is carriedout, for example, by a heat setter of a pin tenter type generally usedfor the heat treatment of fabrics, wherein a grey fabric or a scouredfabric is heat-treated while maintaining the width thereof at apredetermined value smaller than the original width and tensioning inthe warp-wise direction more than in the filling-wise direction.

The narrowing ratio is in a range from 5% to 30%, preferably from 10% to25%. The favorable range of the narrowing ratio is variable inaccordance with the ease of bending of a raw yarn used as a fillingyarn. Also, the narrowing ratio is effected by a dry heat shrinkage ofthe raw yarn itself. Thus, it is important that the optimum narrowingratio is selected from the above-mentioned range in a range from 5% to30% based on the study of the physical properties of the raw yarn.

If the narrowing ratio is 5% of less, the resultant lining cloth has theunsatisfactory filling-wise elongation of 5% or less. The lining clothhaving the filling-wise elongation of 5% or less has no sufficientanti-seam slippage effect and is in the same category as theconventional lining cloth. Contrarily, if the filling-wise elongationexceeds 30%, there are problems in that the tensioned state is low inthe filling-wise direction to generate crease in the fabric land causebowing of the filling yarns in the fabric structure. Also, the crimp ofthe filling yarn becomes excessively large to allow the filling yarn tobulge on the fabric surface. This causes the lining cloth to be harsh intouch and deteriorates the wear comfort.

The heat treatment of the grey fabric is one of important processesaccording to the present invention wherein the filling-wise shrinkage ofthe fabric structure is obtained, as designed, to increase the warpdensity as well as the crimp of the filling yarn, and the filling yarnis sufficiently heat-set to form a rigid crimp.

If the heat-setting of the raw yarn is insufficient in this heattreatment, a defective lining cloth poor in filling wise elongation isthe result, because the filling yarn is liable to shrink when heated ina process subsequent to the heat treatment (for example, scouring ordyeing process). Also creases may occur. The crease generated in thisstage is not completely remedied even by a tensioned heat set in a finalfinishing process.

The heat treatment temperature under which the shrinkage of fabricstructure and the heat set are sufficiently done is preferably in arange from 160° C. to 210° C. More preferably, it is in a range from180° C. to 200° C. If the heat treatment temperature is lower than 160°C., the heat setting of the filling yarn becomes insufficient to cause alack of filling-wise elongation and generation of creases. If it exceeds210° C., the warp and filling yarns are damaged by heat to deterioratethe mechanical properties of the resultant lining cloth, which alsoincreases the rigidity of the lining cloth, resulting in harsh touch.

The raw polyester filamentary yarn used as filling yarn is a flat yarnby a conventional spinning method, a spin-draw takeup method or ahigh-speed spinning method and is not subjected to a texturizing processsuch as false-twisting, stuffing, gear-crimping, knit-deknitting orfluid-jetting. In this regard, the raw yarn may be interlaced orlightly-twisted to facilitate the cohesiveness of filaments composed ofthe same. As the raw polyester filamentary yarn, filamentary yarn madefrom a fiber-forming polyester polymer selected from homopolyester suchas polyethylene terephtahlate, polybutylene terephthalate orpolytrimethylene terephthalate and copolyester can be used. Thepolyester polymer includes not only a homopolymer but also copolymer.These polymers may be added with optional additives such as ananti-static, a flame resistant, a heat resistant, a light resistant ortitanium oxide. To obtain a lining cloth having a proper bendingrigidity and a filling-wise elongation in a range from 5% to 12% definedby the present invention, a easily-bendable raw yarn is preferably usedas a filling yarn.

When the raw yarn is composed of a filament yarn having a circularcross-sectional shape, a diameter of a single filament is preferablysmaller because such a filling yarn is easily bendable to wrap around awarp yarn and causes a crimp size of the filling yarn to enlarge.Therefore, a multifilamentary yarn is preferable. A total fineness ofthe raw yarn is preferably in a range from 30 denier to 100 denier, anda fineness of single filament is preferably in a range from 0.1 denierto 3.0 denier, more preferably from 0.2 denier to 2.0 denier.

The cross-sectional shape of the single filament may be either circularor non-circular. The non-circular cross-section may be of a polygonalshape such as triangular, an L-shape or a Y-shape, a multi-lobal shape,a hollow shape or an indefinite shape. A flat shape and an oval shapeare particularly favorable because they are easily bendable in aspecified direction.

The flat shape referred to herein includes a substantial flat shape suchas a W-shape, an I-shape, a boomerang shape, a wave shape, a ball-arrayshape, which has a sectional structure easily bendable in a specifieddirection.

To further facilitate the ease of bending, the above-mentioned singlefilament of a non-circular cross-section is preferably used as amultifilamentary yarn. In the flat type and the oval type, a fineness ofthe single filament is in a range from 0.5 denier to 4 denier,preferably from 0.5 denier to 3 denier.

Irrespective of whether the raw yarn is composed of filaments eachhaving a circular cross-section or a non-circular cross-section, if thecrimp ratio of the filling yarn in the grey fabric of 1.5% or more,preferably 2% or more is attainable by such a raw yarn, it is possibleto obtain the lining cloth of the present invention. No limitationexists in kinds of polymer and types of spinning method.

By using the easily-bendable raw yarn, the resultant lining cloth issoft in touch and exhibits the bending rigidity in the filling-wisedirection of the fabric of 0.030 gf·cm²/cm or less, preferably 0.020gf·cm²/cm or less.

The time for the heat treatment according to the present inventionshould be sufficient for heat-setting the shrinkage of fabric structureand the crimp in the filling yarn. If the heat-treatment temperature ishigher, the heat-treatment time must be shorter to prevent the warp andfilling yarns from being damaged, while if the heat-treatmenttemperature is lower, the heat-treatment time must be longer. Theheat-treatment time is preferably in a range from 15 seconds to 60seconds at the heat-treatment temperature in a range from 180° C. to200° C. The heat treatment may be carried out by conventionalapparatuses capable of treating the fabric in a tensioned state both inthe warp-wise direction and the filling-wise direction. A heat setter ofa pin tenter type widely used for the fabric heat treatment, having pinsat the opposite edges thereof, is favorably used.

The scouring carried out in the present invention is a process forremoving spinning oil or warp-sizing agent from the grey fabric, whereina treatment liquid used in the scouring process is preferably water oraqueous solution containing surfactant and alkali. The scouring processmay be carried out by using an open soaper type continuous scouringapparatus, a liquid-stream type dyeing machine, a bath-suspension typecontinuous treatment apparatus, a wince dyeing machine or a sofsascouring apparatus which is conventionally used for the fabric scouring.

While the narrowing heat treatment may be carried out either prior to orafter scouring the fabric,the heat treatment prior to the scouring isfavorable for the purpose of achieving a softer touch and a largerfilling-wise elongation.

After the narrowing heat treatment and the scouring process, adyeing/finishing process is carried out as for the conventional liningcloth.

If a softer touch is desired, a weight reduction treatment with alkalimay be adopted prior to dyeing. Generally, the weight reductiontreatment with alkali contributes to the improvement in touch, butcreates larger interstices between warp yarns and filling yarns landtends to cause the seam slippage. Since the lining cloth according tothe present invention has a suitable filling-wise elongation, the seamslippage during the wearing is significantly reduced even though aweight reduction treatment with alkali is adopted.

The dyeing of the lining cloth of 100% polyester filamentary yarns maybe carried out by using a liquid-stream type dyeing machine, a jiggerdyeing machine or a wince dyeing machine which is usually used fordyeing the conventional lining cloth of polyester filamentary yarns. Ofthem, the liquid-stream type dyeing machine is favorable in view of thegrade of dyed product and the production cost thereof.

As for the finishing process after dyeing, a method widely used forfinishing the conventional lining cloth of polyester filamentary yarnsis adopted as in the dyeing process. Care must be taken so that thefabric width is not excessively widened when heat-treated for thepurpose of removing crease in the final finishing process, for example,by a pin tenter or the like because a larger widening of width resultsin the lining cloth poor in filling-wise elongation. For instance, thewidened width must be larger by a range from 1 cm to 3 cm than the widthof the as-dyed fabric.

In the finishing process, finishing additives may be optionally added tothe fabric, such as an anti-static, a water-repellent or asweat-absorbing agent. To improve the luster, smoothness and touch ofthe fabric surface, a calendering treatment may be carried out afterapplying the finishing agent.

When a lining cloth of a mixed woven fabric comprising cellulosicfilamentary yarns/polyester filamentary yarns is dyed, after thenarrowing and the scouring, a polyester component used as filling yarnis initially dyed as described above. Then, a cellulosic component maybe dyed by using the same dyeing machine as used for dyeing thepolyester component. Alternatively, another dyeing machine may be used,such as that of a cold pad batch type or a zigger type.

In the finishing process subsequent to the dyeing, a resin treatment maybe applied, which is usually adopted in the finishing of cellulosicfiber product for improving the laundry shrinkage and the fastness towet friction.

(3) A Lining Cloth Wherein a Cellulosic Filamentary Yarn is Used asFilling Yarn

A preferable production method will be described when the cellulosicfilamentary yarn is used as a filling yarn.

It has been well known that the shrinkage of fabric structure occurswhen the cellulosic fiber fabric is dipped in water due to the swellingof fiber. The lining cloth of the present invention is produced bymaximally using the water-swelling property of cellulosic fiber toshrink the fabric structure.

That is, a grey fabric composed of warp yarns of polyester filamentaryyarns or cellulosic filamentary yarns and filling yarns of cellulosicfilamentary yarns is imparted with water prior to scouring, and isheat-treated at a temperature in a range from 100° C. to 210° C. whilenarrowing the width thereof by 5 to 15% relative to that of the originalgrey fabric, whereby a lining cloth having a filling-wise elongation ina range from 5% to 12% is obtained.

The 5 to 15% narrowing heat treatment is carried out in the same manneras in the fabric composed of filling yarns of false-twisted polyesterfilamentary yarns or raw polyester filamentary yarns with the exceptionin that the grey fabric is imparted with water prior to beingheat-treated while the width thereof is narrowed.

Since the cellulosic filamentary fiber, typically cupra-ammonium rayonand viscose rayon, is rich in amorphous regions in comparison withnatural cellulosic fiber, such as cotton, the change in fiber diameterdue to swelling when dipped in water is larger to easily cause theshrinkage of fabric structure. However, the cellulosic filamentaryfabric having the filling-wise elongation defined by the presentinvention is obtainable by the narrowing heat treatment carried out at ahigher temperature during the swelling.

The cellulosic filamentary yarn used as filling yarn may be ofcupra-ammonium rayon, viscose rayon, polynosic rayon or cellulosicacetate fiber. Of them, cupra-ammonium rayon and viscose rayon areparticularly preferable because they are readily swollen with water landresult in a fabric having a predetermined high filling-wise elongation.If a fiber which is less swollen with water is used, a compound forimproving the degree of swelling described later may be added to aswelling liquid to obtain a desired swelling action.

When cupra-ammonium rayon, viscose rayon or polynosic rayon is used asfilling yarn, the lining cloth of the present invention is notobtainable without the water-dipping process. In a case of acetatecellulosic fiber, a lining cloth having a filling-wise elongation in arange from 5% to 8% is obtainable even without the water-dipping, whilea larger elongation is results from the water-dipping.

The cellulosic filamentary yarn used has a total fineness in a rangefrom 30 denier to 120 denier, preferably from 50 denier to 100 denier,composed of a single filament fineness in a range from 0.5 denier to 10denier, preferably from 0.5 denier to 5 denier. It may favorably be anon-twisted raw yarn, an interlaced yarn or a soft-twisted yarn (ofapproximately 10 to 200 T/m) for the purpose of enhancing the filamentcohesiveness, but may be a textured yarn produced by a false-twistingmethod, air-jetting method or others, if necessary.

It is preferable to evenly impart the grey fabric with water prior toscouring. Suitable means to do so includes a dipping method, a spraymethod or a kiss roll method. Of them, the dipping method is the best inview of the operational stability and the processing cost. In thedipping method, a fabric is easily and evenly imparted with water bycontinuously passing through a water bath in a period from about 1second to about 30 seconds. To facilitate the swelling of cellulosicfilamentary yarn, an alkali compound such as sodium hydroxide, potassiumhydroxide, lithium hydroxide or sodium carbonate may be added to waterbath in a range from 0.5% to 10% by weight. The water temperature is notlimited but is preferably in range from a normal temperature to 100° C.

After being imparted with water, the fabric preferably passes adehydrating device such as a mangle disposed between the dipping bathand the heat-treatment apparatus prior to the narrowing heat treatmentto remove excessive water from the fabric surface, which contributes tothe uniformity of quality.

When the fabric is heat-treated with a heat setter of a pin tenter typeusually used for processing the conventional fabrics, the grey fabric orthe scoured fabric to be heat-treated is fixed at opposite edges thereofwhile tensioned in the warp-wise direction. Thereby, the fabric has awidth narrower than that of the grey fabric.

According to the present invention, the narrowing ratio is in a rangefrom 5% to 15%, preferably from 6% to 13%. The preferable range of thenarrowing ratio is variable in accordance with kinds of cellulosicfilamentary yarn used as a filling yarn. Corresponding to the degree ofswelling of the cellulosic filament used, an optimal narrowing ratio isselected within a range from 5% to 15%. When the narrowing ratio is lessthan 5%, the resultant lining cloth becomes poor in a filling-wiseelongation of less than 5%. Contrarily, when the narrowing ratio exceeds15%, creases may generate in the fabric or the filling yarn is liable tobe bowed in the ground structure. Also, a crimp size of the filling yarnin the fabric becomes excessively large to allow the filling yarn bulgeon the fabric surface to result in a lining cloth harsh in touch andpoor in wearing comfort.

In the heat treatment of the grey fabric, it is necessary toinstantaneously dry the swelling cellulosic filament so that thefilling-wise shrinkage of the fabric structure occurs as designed toincrease the warp density. This process is important for enlarging thecrimp size of the filling yarn. If the fabric does not instantaneouslydry in this heat treatment, shrinkage of the filling yarn on its ownoccurs to result in a lining cloth poor in elongation and also creasesmay be generated. The creases generated in this stage do not completelydisappear even though the fabric is heat-treated under tension duringthe final finishing process.

A heat treatment temperature for sufficiently shrinking and heat-settingthe fabric structure is preferably in a range from 100° C. to 210° C.,more preferably from 130° C. to 200° C. If the heat treatmenttemperature is lower than 100° C., the instantaneous drying of theswelling filling yarn is impossible, whereby the filling-wise elongationbecomes insufficient or crease is liable to generate. Contrarily, if theheat treatment temperature exceeds 210° C., the warp yarn and thefilling yarn are damaged by heat to result in a lining cloth hard intouch and inferior in mechanical properties.

A sufficient shrinkage must occur in the fabric structure within a heattreatment time of the present invention. If the heat treatmenttemperature is high, a shorter heat treatment time is selected in viewof the damage to the warp and filling yarns, while if the heat treatmenttemperature is low, a longer heat treatment time should be selected. Apreferable heat treatment time is in a range from 15 seconds to 180seconds when the temperature is in a range from 130 to 200° C.

A suitable heat treatment apparatus is are capable of treating thefabric in a tensioned state both in the warp-wise and filling-wisedirections. Especially, a heat setter of a pin tenter type having pinsat opposite edges thereof is favorably adopted, which has been widelyused for the heat treatment of the conventional fabrics.

After being swollen with water and heat-treated while the width narrows,the fabric is then scoured for the purpose of removing spinning oil orsizing agent therefrom. A treatment liquid used for the scouring isfavorably water or an aqueous solution containing surfactant and alkali.An apparatus used for this purpose is not limited but may be one usedfor scouring conventional fabrics, including an open soaper typecontinuous scouring apparatus, a liquid-stream type dyeing machine, abath-suspension type continuous processing apparatus, a wince typedyeing machine and a sofsa scouring apparatus. Of them, the open soapertype continuous scouring apparatus and the jigger dyeing machine arefavorable in view of the productivity and the generation of creases.

The scoured fabric may be processed by optional treatmentsconventionally applied to a lining cloth composed of cellulosicfilaments. For example, the fabric may be dyed with suitable dyes by aliquid-stream dyeing method, a jigger dyeing method, a beam dyeingmethod, a cold pad batch method, a pad steam dyeing method, a pad rolldyeing method or others in accordance with kinds of cellulosic filamentused as filling and warp yarns.

Also, a fabric composed of warp yarns of polyester filament and weftyarns of cellulosic filament may be dyed in the same manner as describedabove, wherein the same dyeing machine as used for dyeing the polyestercomponent may be used for dyeing the cellulosic component, or adifferent dyeing machine, for example, of a cold pad batch method, a padsteam method or a zigger method may be used for this purpose.

A resin treatment may be applied to the fabric in the finishing processafter dyeing, for improving the laundry shrinkage and the fastness towet friction, as conventionally used for processing the cellulosic fiberproduct. Care must be taken so that the fabric width is not excessivelywidened when heat-treated for the purpose of removing creases in thefinal finishing process, for example, by a pin tenter or the likebecause a larger widening of the width results in a lining cloth poor infilling-wise elongation. For instance, the widened width must be largerby from 1 cm to 3 cm than the width of the as-dyed fabric.

A finishing agent such as an antistatic, a water repellent or asweat-absorbing agent may be applied to the fabric in the finishingprocess. To improve the luster, smoothness and touch of the fabricsurface, a calendering treatment may be applied to the fabric.

The lining cloth using filling yarn of cellulosic filament according tothe present invention has a fabric structure resistant to shrinkagebecause it has a filling-wise elongation in a range from 5% to 12% and alarge crimp size in the filling yarn. Thus, the lining cloth isexcellent in dimensional stability against domestic laundry as well asin crease resistance.

The present invention will be described below in more detail withreference to Examples, but is not limited thereto.

EXAMPLES

Physical properties used for estimating the product quality are measuredas follows:

(1) Measurement of Filling-wise Elongation of Fabric

A tensile test of a fabric sample of 20 cm×20 cm size was carried out byKES-FB1 available from Katoh Tec. K.K. (phonetic) wherein the sample isstretched at a tensile speed of 0.2 mm/sec in the filling-wise directionand an elongation S (%) is determined by the following formula:

S=(A/B)×100

wherein A represents an elongated length (cm) at a tensile stress of 500g/cm and B represents an original length (20 cm) of the fabric sample.

(2) Measurement of Coefficient of Dynamic Friction

A friction test of the lining cloth was carried out by KES-SE availablefrom Katoh Tec. K.K. (phonetic) wherein a frictional slider of 25 gweight having a frictional surface of 1 cm×1 cm size to which isattached a scoured cotton cloth of a plain weave No. 3 of shirtingslides on a surface of the lining cloth fixed on a flat table at a speedof 5 cm/min. From a frictional resistance obtained by this test, acoefficient of dynamic friction (μ) is determined via the followingformula:

μ=A/B

wherein A represents a mean value (g) of the measured frictionalresistance and B represents a weight of the slider (g). In this regard,the coefficient of dynamic friction of the lining cloth is an average ofthe measured value obtained when the slider slides in the warp-wisedirection of the lining cloth and that obtained when sliding in thefilling-wise direction.

(3) Measurement of Crimp Ratio of Filling Yarn

A crimp ratio of a filling yarn was obtained in the following manner. Apiece of a filling yarn is picked up from a portion of a grey fabric ora dyed and finished fabric on which is marked a 20 cm length in thefilling-wise direction, which then is loaded with a weight of 0.1 g/dand a length (S cm) thereof is measured. The crimp ratio is calculatedby the following formula:

Crimp ratio of filling yarn (%)={(S−20)/20}×100

(4) Warp and Filling Density of Woven Fabric

A fabric density was determined by counting the number of warp yarns inone inch width of the woven fabric.

(5) Fineness of Warp Yarn (Warp Fineness)

A fineness of a warp yarn was determined by measuring a weight W (g) oftwo samples of warp yarn having a length of 90 cm under a load of 0.1g/d, and substituting the measured value in the following formula:

Fineness of warp yarn (denier)=W×900000/180

(6) Filling-wise Bending Rigidity of Woven Fabric

A filling-wise bending rigidity of a woven fabric was determined byusing KES-FB2 available from Katoh Tec. K.K. (phonetic) wherein a sampleof a woven fabric in a size of 20 cm in the warp-wise direction ×20 cmin the filling-wise direction is grasped so that an effective samplelength of 20 cm in the warp-wise direction and 1 cm in the filling-wisedirection is obtained, which is then bent under the condition of themaximum curvature of ±2.5 cm⁻¹ and the bending speed of 0.50 cm⁻¹. Adifference between bending moments per unit width (gf·cm/cm) at thecurvatures of +0.5 cm⁻¹ and +1.5 cm⁻¹ (front side bending) was dividedby the curvature (1 cm⁻¹) to result in a value (gf·cm²/cm). This valueis averaged with a similar value (gf·cm²/cm) obtained from a differencebetween bending moments per unit width (gf·cm/cm) at the curvatures of−0.5 cm⁻¹ and −1.5 cm⁻¹ (back side bending) divided by the curvature (1cm⁻¹).

(7) Estimation of Surface Appearance of Fabric

Creases, pebbled-surface effects or others were observed by naked eyesand hand feeling.

⊚: very good

∘: good

Δ: slightly not good

×: not good

(8) Estimation of Touch of Fabric

Touch was estimated by an organoleptic test.

⊚: very good

∘: good

Δ: slightly not good

×: not good

(9) Estimation of Seam Slippage

A tight skirt was prepared from an outer cloth of wool (twill weave, abasis weight of 290 g/m², a thickness of 0.55 mm, a warp/filling densityof 88/71) having a warp/filling-wise elongation of 15%/10% and a liningcloth prepared by each of the following Examples of the presentinvention (the skirt is patterned with a 5% margin relative to a bodysize but there is no “kise” in the lining cloth). After the tight skirtwas worn by a monitor for 4 weeks, the seam slippage was estimated bymeasuring the maximum slippage between opposite sides of the seam whileapplying a load of 0.5 kg/2.54 cm.

(10) Estimation of Wearing Comfort

A tight skirt was prepared from an outer cloth of wool (twill weave, abasis weight of 290 g/m², a thickness of 0.55 mm, a warp/filling densityof 88/71) having a warp/filling-wise elongation of 15%/10% and a liningcloth prepared by each of the following Examples of the presentinvention (the skirt is patterned with a 5% margin relative to a bodysize but there is no “kise” in the lining cloth). An organoleptic testwas carried out, by a monitor, on wearing comfort.

⊚: very good

∘: good

Δ: slightly not good

×: not good

(11) Measurement of Wearing Pressure

Five sensors were attached to left and right sides, respectively, of ahip portion of a monitor wearing the tight skirt used for theabove-mentioned estimation of wearing comfort, and a pressure applied tothe respective sensors when the monitor crouches was measured by aclothing pressure meter (Type AM13037-10) marketed from (K.K.) AMI, amean value of which is used as the wearing pressure.

The following Examples 1 to 11 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7 are thoseof woven fabrics of a plain weave in which false-twisted polyesterfilamentary yarns are used as filling yarns.

Example 1

A grey fabric of a plain weave was woven from warp yarns of rawpolyethylene terephthalate filamentary yarn of 50d/24f and filling yarnsof false-twisted polyethylene terephthalate filamentary yarn of of adouble-heater type of 75d/36f (the number of false-twist of 3350 T/M, afirst heater temperature of 220° C., a second heater temperature of 180°C., a feed rate in the second heater zone of +20%), which has a warpdensity of 100 ends/inch, a filling density of 81 picks/inch, a basisweight of 50 g/m² and a fabric width of 131.5 cm.

The grey fabric was narrowed in width by 5% relative to the originalwidth in a pin tenter under the condition of 190° C.×30 seconds. Then,the fabric was scoured in a liquid-stream type dyeing machine with anaqueous solution containing sodium carbonate of 2 g/l and Scourol(marketed by Kao K.K.) of 2 g/l under the condition of 130° C.×10minutes. Thereafter, the fabric was dyed by a liquid-stream type dyeingmachine under the condition described in Table 1 and reduction-scouredto result in a dyed fabric. The dyed fabric was finished under thecondition described in Table 2 to result in a lining cloth.

TABLE 1 Dyeing condition Dyeing condition dyeing method liquid-streamdyeing method dye C.I DISPERSE BLUE 291 of 1% owf dispersant DISPER TL(MEISEI KAGAKU K.K.: Tamol type) of 1 g/l PH adjustor acetic acid of 0.5cc/l dyeing temperature 130° C. dyeing time 30 minutes

TABLE 2 Finishing condition finishing method pad dry curing method waterrepellent NK GUARD FGN800 (NIKKA KAGAKU K.K.) of 1% by weight antistaticMEWLON AS222 (MIYOSHI YUSHI K.K.) of 1% by weight Note 1: Finishingprocess A finishing process was carried out as follows: The fabric wasimpregnated with a treatment liquid and squeezed at a mangle pressure of5 kg, dried at 100° C. for one minute, and heat-treated at 170° C. for30 seconds.

Example 2

The same process was repeated as in Example 1, except that the narrowingratio was 10%, and a lining cloth was prepared.

Example 3

A grey fabric of a plain weave was woven from warp yarns of rawpolyethylene terephthalate filamentary yarn of 50d/24f and filling yarnsof false-twisted polyethylene terephthalate filamentary yarn of asingle-heater type of 75d/36f (the number of false-twist of 3300 T/M, aheater temperature of 220° C.), which has a warp density of 121ends/inch, a filling density of 82 picks/inch, a basis weight of 59 g/m²and a fabric width of 123.0 cm.

The grey fabric was narrowed in width by 5% relative to the originalwidth in a pin tenter under the condition of 190° C.×30 seconds. Then,the fabric was scoured in an open soaper type continuous scouringapparatus under the condition described in Table 3, and subjected to theweight reduction treatment with alkali under the condition described inTable 4. The weight-reduced fabric was dyed and finished as described inTable 1 to result in a lining cloth.

TABLE 3 Scouring method Continuous scouring process scouring--->rinsingwith hot water--->dehydrating--->Drying 90° C.     80° C.     120° C.NaOH of 5 g/l surfactant (nonionic type) of 2 g/l

TABLE 4 Condition for weight reduction treatment with alkaliweight-reduction method pad steam method caustic soda 250 g/l penetrantNEORATE NA30 of 10 g/l squeezing ratio 40% by weight weight reductionratio 8% by weight

Example 4

The same process was repeated as in Example 3, except that the narrowingratio is 10%, and a lining cloth was prepared.

Example 5

The grey fabric obtained by Example 3 was initially scoured by acontinuous scouring apparatus under the condition described in Table 3,except that both of the scouring temperature and the rinsing temperatureare lowered to 50° C. Subsequently, the resultant fabric was subjectedto narrowing at a narrowing ratio of 10% relative to the gray fabric at190° C. for 30 seconds by a pin tenter, and then dyed under the samecondition as in Example 3.

Example 6

The same process was repeated as in Example 3, except that the narrowingratio is 15%, and a lining cloth was prepared.

Example 7

Example 1 was repeated except that the heat treatment is carried out at180° C. for 60 seconds.

Example 8

A grey fabric of a plain weave was woven from warp yarns ofcupra-ammonium rayon filamentary yarn of 50d/30f and filling yarns of afalse-twisted polyethylene terephthalate filamentary yarn of asingle-heater type of 75d/36f (the number of false-twist of 3300 T/M, aheater temperature of 220° C.), which has a warp density of 131ends/inch, a filling density of 82 picks/inch, a basis weight of 63 g/m²and a fabric width of 132.0 cm.

The grey fabric was narrowed in width by.10% relative to the originalwidth under the condition of 190° C.×30 seconds. Then, the fabric wasde-sized and scoured under the condition described in Table 3, dyedunder the condition described in Table 5, and resin-treated under thecondition described in Table 6 to result in a lining cloth.

TABLE 5 Dyeing condition dyeing method a liquid-stream type dyeingmachine dye C.I Disperse Blue 291 of 1% owf C.I Direct Blue 291 of 1%owf dispersant Disper TL (MEISEI KAGAKU: Tamol type) of 1 g/l sodiumsulfate 50 g/l temperature × time 130° C. × 60 minutes bath ratio 1:20pH of dye bath 5.5

TABLE 6 Finishing condition finishing method pad dry cure method resinSumitex Resin NF-500K 5% by weight (SUMITOMO KAGAKU 1.3 dimethylglyoxalurea type) catalyst Sumitex ACC X-110 (SUMITOMO KAGAKU: compositemetallic salt type) of 1.5% by weight softening agent Nikka MS-1F (NIKKAKAGAKU: methylolamide type) Note 1) resin treatment process A resintreatment process was carried out as follows: The fabric was impregnatedwith a treatment liquid and squeezed at a mangle pressure of 5 kg, driedat 100° C. for one minute, and heat-treated at 160° C. for 2 minutes.

Example 9

A grey fabric of a plain weave was woven from warp yarns of viscoserayon filamentary yarn of 75d/33f and filling yarns of a false-twistedpolyethylene terephthalate filamentary yarn of a single-heater type of75d/36f (the number of false-twist of 3300 T/M, a heater temperature of220° C.), which has a warp density of 115 ends/inch, a filling densityof 82 picks/inch and a fabric width of 132.0 cm.

The grey fabric was narrowed in width by 10% relative to the originalwidth under the condition of 190° C.×30 seconds. Then, the fabric wasde-sized, scoured, dyed and resin-treated under the same conditions asin Example 8 to result in a lining cloth.

Example 10

A grey fabric of a plain weave was woven from warp yarns of polyethyleneterephthalate filamentary yarn of 75d/36f and filling yarns of afalse-twisted polyethylene terephthalate filamentary yarn of asingle-heater type of 75d/36f (the number of false-twists of 3300 T/M, aheater temperature of 220° C.), which has a warp density of 121ends/inch, a filling density of 82 picks/inch, a basis weight of 59 g/m²and a fabric width of 123.0 cm.

The grey fabric was narrowed in width, scoured, dyed and finished underthe same condition as in Example 3 to result in a lining cloth.

Example 11

The grey fabric obtained by Example 10 was narrowed in width, scoured,dyed and finished under the same condition as in Example 4.

Comparative Example 1

The same process was repeated as in Example 1, except that the heattreatment is not carried out prior to the scouring. The finished fabrichad a width of 101 cm which means that a narrowing ratio was 23%relative to the grey fabric.

Comparative Example 2

The grey fabric obtained by Example 1 (of 131.5 cm wide) was soured by aliquid-stream type dyeing machine with the same scouring liquid as inExample 1 at 130° C. for 10 minutes, and heat-treated by a pin tenter sothat a narrowing ratio of 10% (a fabric width of 118.4 cm) was obtainedrelative to the grey fabric. Then, the fabric was dyed and finishedunder the same condition as in Example 1 to obtain a lining cloth.

Comparative Example 3

The grey fabric obtained by Example 1 was processed in the same manneras in Example 1 except that the narrowing ratio is 3%.

Comparative Example 4

The grey fabric obtained by Example 3 was processed in the same manneras in Example 1 except that the narrowing ratio is 20%.

Comparative Example 5

The same process was repeated as in Example 1 except that the heattreatment is carried out at 150° C. for 2 minutes to result in a liningcloth.

Comparative Example 6

The same process was repeated as in Example 1 except that the heattreatment was carried out at 220° C. for 10 seconds to result in alining cloth.

Comparative Example 7

A grey fabric of a plain weave was woven from warp yarns of polyesterfilamentary yarn of 50d/24f (of a sheath/core type antistatic fiber) andfilling yarns of raw polyester filamentary yarn of 75d/36f (of acircular cross-section), which has a warp density of 120 ends/inch, afilling density of 80 picks/inch, a basis weight of 50 g/m² and a fabricwidth of 133 cm. The grey fabric was scoured under the conditiondescribed in Table 3. Thereafter, the fabric was preset to have a widthof 123 cm (a narrowing ratio of 8%) at 190° C. for 10 seconds.Subsequently, the fabric was dyed by a liquid-stream type dyeing machineunder the condition described in Table 1, reduced and rinsed for thepurpose of removing excessive dye, and dried. Finally, the fabric wasfinished under the conditions described in Table 2.

Table 7 shows an elongation, a coefficient of dynamic friction, a crimpindex value of the filling yarn (crimp ratio/{warp density×(fineness ofwarp yarn)^(1/2)}, a seam slippage, an appearance, a touch, a bendingrigidity, a wear comfort and a wearing pressure of the lining clothsobtained by Examples 1 to 11 and Comparative examples 1 to 7.

TABLE 7 PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF LINING CLOTH OF PLAIN WEAVE COMPOSED OFFALSE-TWISTED POLYESTER FILAMENTARY FILLING YARNS Crimp Filling Coeffi-Weave Ratio + wise cient density {(warp Bending Seam elonga- ofwarp/filling Crimp density) × rigidity slip- Wearing tion dynamic (endsor ratio (warp end (gf·cm²/ page pressure Wearing Surface Fabric (%)friction picks/inch) (%) denier)^(1/2)} cm) (mm) (g/cm²) comfortappearance touch Examples 1 5.6 0.40 104/83 5.4 0.007 0.018 0.8 34 ◯ ⊚ ◯2 10.8 0.42 110/84 10.5 0.013 0.011 0.3 30 ⊚ ◯ ◯ 3 5.1 0.38 127/84 5.00.006 0.019 0.9 35 ◯ ⊚ ⊚ 4 9.5 0.38 133/84 9.0 0.009 0.012 0.5 31 ⊚ ⊚ ⊚5 8.5 0.41 131/84 8.1 0.008 0.012 0.4 31 ⊚ ⊚ ⊚ 6 11.6 0.40 138/84 11.10.011 0.011 0.3 30 ◯ ◯ ⊚ 7 6.7 0.42 106/84 6.5 0.008 0.015 0.6 33 ⊚ ◯ ◯8 8.3 0.35 145/84 8.1 0.008 0.012 0.8 32 ⊚ ◯ ◯ 9 8.0 0.38 125/85 7.90.007 0.013 0.9 33 ◯ ◯ ◯ 10 5.2 0.37 125/84 4.9 0.004 0.021 1.0 35 ◯ ⊚ ◯11 7.9 0.39 134/84 7.3 0.006 0.012 0.5 31 ⊚ ⊚ ◯ Compara- 1 21.4 0.50128/86 21.0 0.022 0.021 0.1 27 x x crimped x harsh tive   surface x notslipery Examples   effect 2 11.4 0.48 109/85 11.0 0.014 0.018 0.3 32 x xcrimped x harsh   surface x not slipery   effect 3 4.2 0.39 103/84 4.00.005 0.028 3.7 45 Δ ◯ ◯ 4 9.2 0.40 132/84 8.5 0.009 0.015 0.5 31 Δ xbowed x harsh   warp-wise   crease 5 16.7 0.47 119/85 15.8 0.018 0.015 027 x x crimped x harsh   surface   not slipery   effect 6 6.0 0.41107/84 5.8 0.007 0.028 0.7 34 x ◯ x harsh 7 1.8 0.33 131/83 1.6 0.00160.036 7.0 51 x ◯ x harsh

As apparent from Table 7, the lining cloths according to the presentinvention are superior in the seam slippage, excellent in surfacesmoothness, low in wearing pressure and good in touch compared toComparative examples.

Examples 12 to 18 and Comparative examples 8 to 11 described belowrelate to a lining cloth of a twill weave (2/1 twill weave) using afalse-twisted polyester filamentary yarn as a filling yarns.

Example 12

A grey fabric of a twill weave was woven from warp yarns of rawpolyethylene terephthalate filamentary yarn of 50d/24f and filling yarnsof false-twisted polyethylene terephthalate filamentary yarn of adouble-heater type of 75d/36f (the number of false-twist of 3350 T/M, afirst heater temperature of 220° C., a second heater temperature of 180°C., a feed rate in the second heater zone of +20%), which has a warpdensity of 150 ends/inch, a filling density of 82 picks/inch, and afabric width of 132 cm.

The grey fabric was narrowed in width by 12% relative to the as-wovenfabric in a pin tenter under the condition of 190° C.×30 seconds. Then,the fabric was scoured in a liquid-stream type dyeing machine with anaqueous solution containing sodium carbonate of 2 g/l and Scourol(marketed by Kao K.K.) of 2 g/l under the condition of 130° C.×10minutes. Thereafter, the fabric was dyed by a liquid-stream type dyeingmachine under the condition described in Table 1, and reduced and rinsedfor the purpose of removing an excessive dye to result in a dyed fabric.The dyed fabric was finished under the conditions described in Table 2to result in a lining cloth.

Example 13

The same process was repeated as in Example 12, except that the warpdensity was 163 ends/inch and the narrowing ratio was 8%, and a liningcloth was prepared.

Example 14

A grey fabric was woven from the same warp yarns and weft yarns as inExample 12 at a warp density of 125 ends/inch and a filling density of85 picks/inch to have a twill fabric of 132 cm wide. The grey fabric wasnarrowed in width and heat-set, scoured, dyed, and finished to be alining cloth.

Example 15

A grey fabric of a twill weave was woven from warp yarns of rawpolyethylene terephthalate filamentary yarn of 75d/24f and filling yarnsof false-twisted polyethylene terephthalate filamentary yarn of asingle-heater type of 75d/36f (the number of false-twist of 3300 T/M, aheater temperature of 220° C.), which had a warp density of 124ends/inch, a filling density of 82 picks/inch, and a fabric width of 123cm.

The grey fabric was narrowed in width by 15% relative to the originalwidth in a pin tenter under the condition of 190° C.×30 seconds. Then,the fabric was scoured in an open soaper type continuous scouringapparatus under the same condition as described in Table 3. Thereafter,the fabric was subjected to a weight reduction treatment with alkaliunder the same conditions as described in Table 4. The weight reducedfabric was dyed and finished as described in Example 1 to obtain alining cloth.

Example 16

The same process was repeated as in Example 15, except that thenarrowing ratio was 8%, and a lining cloth was prepared.

Example 17

A grey fabric of a twill weave was woven from warp yarns ofcupra-ammonium rayon filamentary yarn of 70d/36f and filling yarns offalse-twisted polyethylene terephthalate filamentary yarn of asingle-heater type of 50d/30f (the number of false-twist of 3300 T/M, aheater temperature of 220° C.), which had a warp density of 170ends/inch, a filling density of 82 picks/inch, and a fabric width of132.0 cm.

The grey fabric was narrowed in width by 8% relative to the originalwidth under the condition of 190° C.×30 seconds. Then, the fabric wasscoured and desized under the same condition as described in Table 3.Thereafter, the fabric was dyed under the same condition as described inTable 5, and resin-treated under the same conditions as described inTable 6 to result in a lining cloth.

Example 18

A grey fabric of a twill weave was woven from warp yarns of viscoserayon filamentary yarn of 75d/33f and filling yarns of false-twistedpolyethylene terephthalate filamentary yarn of a single-heater type of75d/36f (the number of false-twist of 3300 T/M, a heater temperature of220° C.), which had a warp density of 135 ends/inch, a filling densityof 82 picks/inch, and a fabric width of 132.0 cm.

The grey fabric was narrowed in width by 15% relative to the originalwidth under the condition of 190° C.×30 seconds. Then, the fabric wasscoured, desized, dyed and resin-treated under the same condition asdescribed in Example 17 to result in a lining cloth.

Comparative Example 8

The same process was repeated as in Example 1, except that the narrowingheat treatment prior to the scouring in Example 12 was eliminated, toresult in a lining cloth having a finished width of 106 cm. Thisfinished width corresponds to a narrowing ratio of 20% relative to thegrey fabric.

Comparative Example 9

The grey fabric obtained from Example 12 (of 132 cm wide) was scoured ina liquid-stream type dyeing machine with the same scouring liquid asused in Example 1 under the condition of 130° C.×10 minutes, andnarrowed in width at a narrowing ratio of 5% (to be 125 cm) relative tothe as-woven fabric by a pin tenter under the condition of 190° C.×30seconds. Thereafter, the fabric was dyed and finished in the same manneras in Example 12 to result in a lining cloth.

Comparative Example 10

The same process was repeated as in Example 1, except that the narrowingratio was 3%, to result in a lining cloth.

Comparative Example 11

A grey fabric of a twill weave was woven from warp yarns of polyesterfilamentary yarn (sheath-core type antistatic yarn) of 50d/24f andfilling yarns of raw polyester filamentary yarn of a circularcross-section of 75d/36f, which had a warp density of 150 ends/inch, afilling density of 82 picks/inch, and a fabric width of 133 cm. The greyfabric was scoured under the condition described in Table 3. Thereafter,the resultant fabric was preset at a width of 122 cm (a narrowing ratioof 8%) under the condition of 190° C.×10 seconds and dyed in aliquid-stream type dyeing machine under the condition described inTable 1. Then, the fabric was subjected to a reduction/rinsing treatmentfor the removal of an excessive dye and dried. Finally, the fabric wasfinished under the condition described in Table 2 to result in a liningcloth.

Table 8 shows an elongation, a coefficient of dynamic friction, a crimpindex value of the filling yarn (crimp ratio/{warp density×(fineness ofwarp yarn)^(1/2)}, a seam slippage, an appearance, a touch, a bendingrigidity, a wear comfort and a wearing pressure of the lining clothsobtained from Examples 12 to 18 and Comparative examples 8 to 11.

TABLE 8 PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF LINING CLOTH OF TWILL WEAVE COMPOSED OFFALSE-TWISTED POLYESTER FILAMENTARY FILLING YARNS Crimp Filling Coeffi-Weave Ratio + wise cient density {(warp Bending Seam elonga- ofwarp/filling Crimp density) × rigidity slip- Wearing tion dynamic (endsor ratio (warp end (gf·cm²/ page pressure Wearing Surface Fabric (%)friction picks/inch) (%) denier)^(1/2)} cm) (mm) (g/cm²) comfortappearance touch Examples 12 6.6 0.34 170/83 6.5 0.005 0.023 0.8 33 ⊚ ⊚◯ 13 5.1 0.32 180/84 4.5 0.003 0.025 1.5 31 ◯ ⊚ ◯ 14 11.3 0.35 140/8611.1 0.011 0.021 0.4 29 ◯ ◯ ◯ 15 11.5 0.37 145/84 10.9 0.009 0.020 0.329 ◯ ◯ ⊚ 16 5.3 0.25 135/84 5.1 0.004 0.022 1.0 34 ◯ ⊚ ⊚ 17 6.5 0.28182/84 6.3 0.005 0.024 0.6 31 ⊚ ⊚ ⊚ 18 9.8 0.27 152/84 9.5 0.007 0.0220.5 30 ⊚ ⊚ ⊚ Compara- 8 18.5 0.43 184/86 19.0 0.014 0.015 0.3 28 x xcrimped x harsh tive   surface x not slipery Examples 9 5.4 0.42 156/859.8 0.009 0.019 1.1 32 x x crimped x harsh   surface x not slipery 102.5 0.28 153/84 2.1 0.002 0.035 4.5 45 Δ ⊚ Excellent ◯ Good 11 1.8 0.27163/84 1.7 0.001 0.036 6.2 49 x ⊚ Excellent ◯ Good

As apparent from Table 8, the lining cloths according to the presentinvention were superior in the seam slippage, excellent in surfacesmoothness, low in wearing pressure and good in touch compared toComparative examples.

Examples 19 to 24 and Comparative examples 12 to 14 described belowrelate to a lining cloth of a plain weave using raw polyesterfilamentary yarns as filling yarns.

Example 19

A grey fabric of a plain weave was woven from warp yarns of polyesterfilamentary yarn (sheath-core type antistatic yarn) of 50d/24f andfilling yarns of raw polyester filamentary yarn having a W-shapedcross-section of 50d/30f, which has a warp density of 120 ends/inch, afilling density of 100 picks/inch, and a fabric width of 145.5 cm. Thefilling yarn of a W-shaped cross-section has a ratio between a longerdiameter and a shorter diameter of 3:1.

A crimp ratio of the filling yarn in the grey fabric at this stage was3.8%. The grey fabric was narrowed in width by 15% relative to the greyfabric in a pin tenter under the condition of 190° C./30 seconds. Then,the fabric was scoured in an open soaper type continuous scouringmachine under the condition described in Table 3. Thereafter, the fabricwas dyed in a liquid-stream type dyeing machine under the conditiondescribed in Table 1, then reduced and rinsed for the purpose ofremoving excessive dye, and dried. Finally, the fabric was finishedunder the condition described in Table 2 to result in a lining cloth.

Example 20

A grey fabric of a plain weave was woven from warp yarns of polyesterfilamentary yarn (of a triangular cross-section) of 50d/36f and fillingyarns of polyester filamentary yarn of a W-shaped cross-section of75d/30f, which has a warp density of 120 ends/inch, a filling density of82 ends/inch, and a fabric width of 145.5 cm. The filling yarn of aW-shaped cross-section has a ratio between a longer diameter and ashorter diameter of 3:1. A crimp ratio of the filling yarn in the greyfabric at this stage was 1.9%. The grey fabric was narrowed in width by20% relative to the grey fabric in a pin tenter under the condition of190° C./30 seconds. Then, the fabric was scoured in an open soaper typecontinuous scouring machine under the condition described in Table 3.Thereafter, the fabric was treated with alkali under the conditiondescribed in Table 4 so that the weight thereof is reduced by 8%, anddyed under the condition described in Table 1. The fabric was reducedand rinsed for the purpose of removing an excessive dye, and dried.Finally, the resultant fabric was finished under the condition describedin Table 2 to be a lining cloth.

Example 21

A grey fabric of a plain weave was woven from warp yarns of polyesterfilamentary yarn (sheath-core type antistatic yarn) of 50d/24f andfilling yarns of polyester multi-filamentary yarn of 75d/72f, which hada warp density of 120 ends/inch, a filling density of 82 picks/inch, anda fabric width of 145.5 cm. A crimp ratio of the filling yarn in thegrey fabric was 1.6%.

The grey fabric was narrowed in width by 15% relative to the grey fabricunder the condition of 190° C./30 seconds. Then, the fabric was scouredin an open soaper type continuous scouring machine under the conditiondescribed in Table 3. Thereafter, the fabric was dyed in a liquid-streamtype dyeing machine under the condition described in Table 1, thenreduced and rinsed for the purpose of removing an excessive dye, anddried. Finally, the resultant fabric was finished under the conditiondescribed in Table 2 to be a lining cloth.

Example 22

The same process was repeated as in Example 20, except that the warpdensity of the grey fabric was 90 ends/inch and the weight reductiontreatment with alkali was eliminated to obtain a lining cloth. A crimpratio of the filling yarn in the grey fabric was 1.7%.

Example 23

A grey fabric of a plain weave was woven from warp yarns ofcupra-ammonium rayon filamentary yarn of 50d/30f and filling yarns ofpolyester filamentary yarn having a W-shaped cross-section of 75d/30f,which had a warp density of 131 ends/inch, a filling density of 82picks/inch, and a fabric width of 132.0 cm. The filling yarn of aW-shaped dross-section had a ratio between a longer diameter and ashorter diameter of 3:1. A crimp ratio of the filling yarn in the greyfabric was 2.0%.

The grey fabric was narrowed in width by 20% under the condition of 190°C./30 seconds. Then, the fabric was desized and scoured under thecondition described in Table 3. Thereafter, the polyester component ofthe fabric was dyed under the condition described in Table 12. Afterbeing reduced and scoured, the cupra-ammonium component was dyed underthe condition described in Table 11. Finally, the fabric wasresin-treated under the condition described in Table 6 to result in alining cloth.

Example 24

A grey fabric of a plain weave was woven from warp yarns ofcupra-ammonium rayon filamentary yarn of 50d/30f and filling yarns ofpolyester filamentary yarn having a W-shaped cross-section of 75d/30f,which had a warp density of 145 ends/inch, a filling density of 82picks/inch, and a fabric width of 132.0 cm. The filling yarn of aW-shaped cross-section had a ratio between a longer diameter and ashorter diameter of 3:1. A crimp ratio of the filling yarn in the greyfabric is 2.2%. The grey fabric was narrowed in width by 20% under thecondition of 190° C./30 seconds. Then, the fabric was desized andscoured under the condition described in Table 3, and dyed andresin-treated under the same condition as in Example 23 to result in alining cloth.

Comparative Example 12

A grey fabric of a plain weave was woven from warp yarns of polyesterfilamentary yarn (sheath-core type antistatic yarn) of 50d/24f andfilling yarns of raw polyester filamentary yarn of a circularcross-section of 75d/36f, which has a warp density of 120 ends/inch, afilling density of 80 picks/inch, and a fabric width of 145.5 cm. Acrimp ratio of the filling yarn in the grey fabric was 0.8%.

The grey fabric was narrowed in width by 15% in a pin tenter under thecondition of 190° C.×30 seconds and then, the fabric was scoured in aliquid-stream type dyeing machine with an aqueous solution containingsodium carbonate of 2 g/l and Scourol (marketed by Kao K.K.) of 2 g/lunder the condition of 130° C.×10 minutes. Thereafter, the fabric wasdyed by a liquid-stream type dyeing machine under the conditiondescribed in Table 1, and reduced and rinsed for the purpose of removingan excessive dye to result in a dyed fabric. The dyed fabric wasfinished under the condition described in Table 2 to result in a liningcloth.

Comparative Example 13

The same process was repeated as in Example 20, except that thenarrowing ratio was 4% in the heat treatment prior to the scouring, toobtain a lining cloth.

Comparative Example 14

The same process was repeated as in Example 19, except that thenarrowing ratio is 35% prior to the scouring, to obtain a lining cloth.

Table 9 shows an elongation, a coefficient of dynamic friction, a crimpindex value of the filling yarn (crimp ratio/{warp density×(fineness ofwarp yarn)^(1/2)}, a seam slippage, an appearance, a touch, a bendingrigidity, a wear comfort and a wearing pressure of the lining clothsobtained from Examples 19 to 24 and Comparative examples 12 to 14.

TABLE 9 PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF LINING CLOTH OF PLAIN WEAVE COMPOSED OFRAW POLYESTER FILAMENTARY FILLING YARNS Crimp Filling Coeffi- WeaveRatio + wise cient density {(warp Bending Seam elonga- of warp/fillingCrimp density) × rigidity slip- Wearing tion dynamic (ends or ratio(warp end (gf·cm²/ page pressure Wearing Surface Fabric (%) frictionpicks/inch) (%) denier)^(1/2)} cm) (mm) (g/cm²) comfort appearance touchExamples 19 8.0 0.32  138/103 7.8 0.008 0.005 0.5 33 ⊚ ⊚ ⊚ 20 7.5 0.31145/84 7.3 0.007 0.011 0.7 32 ⊚ ⊚ ⊚ 21 5.5 0.30 139/84 5.1 0.005 0.0150.9 35 ◯ ◯ ◯ 22 9.5 0.34 110/84 9.3 0.012 0.005 0.6 31 ⊚ ◯ ◯ 23 7.0 0.32158/85 6.8 0.006 0.011 0.8 32 ⊚ ⊚ ⊚ 24 5.6 0.31 174/84 5.4 0.004 0.0112.5 31 ◯ ⊚ ⊚ Compara- 12 2.9 0.29 138/82 2.1 0.002 0.033 7.0 45 x ⊚smooth Δ harsh tive Rising-up of hem Examples 13 2.0 0.29 125/82 1.90.002 0.027 5.5 51 x ⊚ smooth Δ harsh Rising-up of hem 14 10.8 0.45 152/102 10.1 0.009 0.005 Unable to produce because of occurrence ofwarp-wise crease and weft bow

As is apparent from Table 9, the lining cloths according to the presentinvention are superior in the seam slippage, improved in slipperinessdue to the lower coefficient of dynamic friction, and soft in touchcompared to Comparative examples.

Examples 25 to 31 and Comparative examples 15 to 17 described belowrelate to a lining cloth of a twill weave (2/1 rising twill weave) usingraw polyester filamentary yarns as filling yarns.

Example 25

A grey fabric of a twill weave was woven from warp yarns of polyesterfilamentary yarn (sheath-core type antistatic yarn) of 50d/24f andfilling yarns of polyester multi-filamentary yarn having a W-shapedcross-section of 50d/30f, which had a warp density of 150 ends/inch, afilling density of 100 picks/inch, and a fabric width of 145.5 cm. Thefilling yarn of a W-shaped cross-section has a ratio between a longerdiameter and a shorter diameter of 3:1. A crimp ratio of the fillingyarn in the grey fabric was 3.1%.

The grey fabric was narrowed in width by 17% relative to the grey fabricin a pin tenter under the condition of 190° C./30 seconds. Then, thefabric was scoured in an open soaper type continuous scouring apparatusunder the condition described in Table 3. Thereafter, the fabric wasdyed by a liquid-stream type dyeing machine under the conditiondescribed in Table 1. The fabric was reduced and rinsed for the purposeof removing an excessive dye, and dried. The dyed fabric was finishedunder the conditions described in Table 2 to result in a lining cloth.

Example 26

A grey fabric of a twill weave was woven from warp yarns of polyesterfilamentary yarn (of a triangular cross-section) of 50d/36f and fillingyarns of polyester filamentary yarn having a W-shaped cross-section of75d/30f, which had a warp density of 150 ends/inch, a filling density of82 picks/inch, and a fabric width of 145.5 cm. The filling yarn of aW-shaped cross-section had a ratio between a longer diameter and ashorter diameter of 3:1. A crimp ratio of the filling yarn in the greyfabric at this stage was 1.8%.

The grey fabric was narrowed in width by 20% relative to the grey fabricunder the condition of 190° C./30 seconds. Then, the fabric was scouredin an open soaper type continuous scouring apparatus under the conditiondescribed in Table 3. Thereafter, the fabric was dyed by a liquid-streamtype dyeing machine under the condition described in Table 1. The fabricwas reduced and rinsed for the purpose of removing an excessive dye, anddried. The dyed fabric was finished under the conditions described inTable 2 to result in a lining cloth.

Example 27

A grey fabric of a twill weave was woven from warp yarns of polyesterfilamentary yarn (sheath-core type antistatic yarn) of 75d/24f andfilling yarns of polyester multi-filamentary yarn of 75d/72f, which hasa warp density of 124 ends/inch, a filling density of 82 picks/inch, anda fabric width of 145.5 cm. A crimp ratio of the filling yarn in thegrey fabric was 2.0% at this stage.

The grey fabric was narrowed in width by 15% relative to the grey fabricin a pin tenter under the conditions of 190° C./30 seconds. Then, thefabric was scoured in an open soaper type continuous scouring apparatusunder the condition described in Table 3. Thereafter, the fabric wasdyed by a liquid-stream type dyeing machine under the conditionsdescribed in Table 1. The fabric was reduced and rinsed for the purposeof removing an excessive dye, and dried. The dyed fabric was finishedunder the condition described in Table 2 to result in a lining cloth.

Example 28

The same process was repeated as in Example 25, except that the warpdensity was 105 ends/inch and the narrowing ratio was 23% in the heattreatment, and a lining cloth was prepared. A crimp ratio of the fillingyarn in the grey fabric was 2.8%.

Example 29

A grey fabric of a twill weave was woven from the same yarns as inExample 26, which had a warp density of 160 ends/inch, a filling densityof 85 picks/inch, and a fabric width of 132 cm. The grey fabric wasnarrowed in width, scoured, dyed and finished under the same conditionsas in Example 26 to result in a lining cloth. A crimp ratio of thefilling yarn in the grey fabric was 1.6%.

Example 30

The desized and scoured fabric obtained from Example 26 was treated withalkali under the same condition as described in Table 4 to reduce theweight thereof by 8%, and thereafter dyed and finished under the samecondition as in Example 26.

Example 31

A grey fabric of a twill weave was woven from warp yarns ofcupra-ammonium rayon filamentary yarn of 50d/30f and filling yarns ofpolyester filamentary yarn of 75d/30f having a W-shaped cross-section,which had a warp density of 131 ends/inch, a filling density of 82picks/inch, and a fabric width of 132.0 cm. The filling yarn of aW-shaped cross-section had a ratio between a longer diameter and ashorter diameter of 3:1. A crimp ratio of the filling yarn in the greyfabric was 1.7%.

The grey fabric was narrowed in width by 20% under the conditions of190° C./30 seconds. After desized and scoured under the same conditionsas described in Table 3, the fabric was dyed and resin-treated under thesame conditions as in Example 23 to result in a lining cloth.

Comparative Example 15

A grey fabric of a twill weave was woven from warp yarns of polyesterfilamentary yarn (sheath-core type antistatic yarn) of 50d/24f andfilling yarns of polyester filamentary yarn having a circularcross-section of 75d/36f, which had a warp density of 150 ends/inch, afilling density of 80 picks/inch, and a fabric width of 145.5 cm. Acrimp ratio of the filling yarn in the grey fabric was 0.7%.

The grey fabric was narrowed in width by 15% in a pin tenter under thecondition of 190° C./30, seconds. Then, the fabric was scoured in aliquid-stream type dyeing machine with an aqueous solution containingsodium carbonate of 2 g/l and Scourol (marketed by Kao K K.) of 2 g/lunder the condition of 130° C.×10 minutes. Thereafter, the fabric wasdyed by a liquid-stream type dyeing machine under the conditionsdescribed in Table 1, and reduced and rinsed for the purpose of removingan excessive dye to result in a dyed fabric. The dyed fabric wasfinished under the condition described in Table 2 to result in a liningcloth.

Comparative Example 16

The same process was repeated as in Example 2, except that the narrowingratio prior to the scouring in Example 26 was 4%, and a lining cloth wasprepared.

Comparative Example 17

The same process was repeated as in Example 1, except that the narrowingratio prior to the scouring in Example 25 was 35%, and a lining clothwas prepared.

Table 10 shows an elongation, a coefficient of dynamic friction, afilling yarn crimp index value (crimp ratio/{warp density×(fineness ofwarp yarn)^(1/2)}, a seam slippage, an appearance, a touch, a bendingrigidity, a wear comfort and a wearing pressure of the lining clothsobtained from Examples 25 to 31 and Comparative examples 15 to 17.

TABLE 10 PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF LINING CLOTH OF TWILL WEAVE COMPOSED OFRAW POLYESTER FILAMENTARY FILLING YARNS Crimp Filling Coeffi- WeaveRatio + wise cient density {(warp Bending Seam elonga- of warp/fillingCrimp density) × rigidity slip- Wearing tion dynamic (ends or ratio(warp end (gf·cm²/ page pressure Wearing Surface Fabric (%) frictionpicks/inch) (%) denier)^(1/2)} cm) (mm) (g/cm²) comfort appearance touchExamples 25 6.5 0.28  178/103 6.2 0.005 0.010 0.8 33 ⊚ ⊚ ⊚ 26 5.2 0.27180/84 4.8 0.004 0.015 1.1 35 ◯ ⊚ ◯ 27 5.6 0.28 145/84 5.5 0.004 0.0151.2 35 ◯ ⊚ ◯ 28 11.5 0.33  129/104 10.8 0.011 0.009 0.6 31 ⊚ ◯ ⊚ 29 6.80.29 193/85 6.7 0.005 0.012 0.5 33 ⊚ ⊚ ◯ 30 5.5 0.27 181/84 5.4 0.0040.008 0.8 34 ◯ ⊚ ⊚ 31 7.0 0.26 158/84 6.8 0.006 0.011 0.5 31 ⊚ ⊚ ⊚Compara- 15 2.2 0.25 173/82 2.0 0.002 0.038 6.5 45 x ⊚ smooth Δ harshtive Rising-up of hem Examples 16 1.8 0.24 156/83 1.5 0.001 0.031 7.5 51x ⊚ smooth Δ harsh Rising-up of hem 17 8.5 0.45  198/105 8.4 0.006 0.007Usable to produce because of occurrence of warp-wise crease and weft bow

As is apparent from Table 10, the lining cloths according to the presentinvention are superior in seam slippage, excellent in surfacesmoothness, low in wearing pressure and good in touch compared toComparative examples.

Examples 32 to 40 and Comparative examples 18 and 19 described belowrelate to a lining cloth of a plain weave using raw cellulosicfilamentary yarns as filling yarns.

Example 32

A grey fabric of a plain weave was woven from warp yarns ofcupra-ammonium rayon filamentary yarn of 50d/30f and filling yarns ofcupra-ammonium filamentary yarn of 75d/45f, which had a warp density of130 ends/inch, a filling density of 82 picks/inch, and a fabric width of145 cm.

The grey fabric was dipped in water at 25° C. for about 5 seconds anddehydrated by a dehydrator at a pick-up of 65%. Then, the fabric wascontinuously subjected to a narrowing heat treatment in a pin tenter ata narrowing ratio of 7% relative to the as-woven fabric under thecondition of 190° C./30 seconds. Thereafter, the fabric was scoured byan open soaper type continuous scouring apparatus under the conditiondescribed in Table 3, dyed under the condition described in Table 11,and resin-treated under the condition described in Table 6 to result ina lining cloth.

TABLE 11 dyeing method cold pad batch method dye Sumifix Navy Blue GS of1% owf auxiliary Sodium hydroxide of 10 g/l temperature 25° C. time 15hours

Example 33

A grey fabric of a plain weave was woven from warp yarns ofcupra-ammonium rayon filamentary yarn of 75d/45f and filling yarns ofcupra-ammonium filamentary yarn of 100d/60f, which had a warp density of110 ends/inch, a filling density of 70 picks/inch, and a fabric width of142 cm.

The grey fabric was dipped at 25° C. in water for about 5 seconds anddehydrated by a dehydrator at a pick-up of 65%. Then, the fabric wascontinuously subjected to a narrowing heat treatment in a pin tenter ata narrowing ratio of 7% relative to the grey fabric under the conditionof 190° C./30 seconds. Thereafter, the fabric was scoured, dyed andresin-treated under the same condition as in Example 32 to result in alining cloth.

Example 34

A grey fabric of a plain weave was woven from warp yarns of polyesterfilamentary yarn having a triangular cross-section of 50d/36f andfilling yarns of cupra-ammonium filamentary yarn of 75d/60f, which has awarp density of 131 picks/inch, a filling density of 82 picks/inch, anda fabric width of 145 cm.

The grey fabric was dipped in water at 25° C. for about 5 seconds anddehydrated by a dehydrator at a pick-up of 50%. Then, the fabric wascontinuously subjected to a narrowing heat treatment in a pin tenter ata narrowing ratio of 7% relative to the grey fabric under the conditionof 200° C./30 seconds. Thereafter, the fabric was scoured in an opensoaper type continuous scouring apparatus under the condition describedin Table 3. Subsequently, the fabric was dyed under the conditiondescribed in Table 5, and resin-treated under the condition described inTable 6 to result in a lining cloth.

Example 35

A grey fabric of a plain weave was woven from warp yarns of viscoserayon filamentary yarn of 50d/20f and filling yarns of viscose rayonfilamentary yarn of 75d/33f, which has a warp density of 127 ends/inch,a filling density of 82 picks/inch, and a fabric width of 145 cm.

The grey fabric was dipped in water at 25° C. for about 5 seconds anddehydrated by a dehydrator at a pick-up of 70%. Then, the fabric wascontinuously subjected to a narrowing heat treatment in a pin tenter ata narrowing ratio of 7% relative to the as-woven fabric under thecondition of 190° C./30 seconds. Thereafter, the fabric was scoured inan open soaper type continuous scouring apparatus under the conditiondescribed in Table 3. Subsequently, the fabric was dyed under thecondition described in Table 11, and resin-treated under the conditiondescribed in Table 6 to result in a lining cloth.

Example 36

A grey fabric of a plain weave was woven from warp yarns of viscoserayon filamentary yarn of 75d/33f and filling yarns of viscose rayonfilamentary yarn of 100d/44f, which had a warp density of 110 ends/inch,a filling density of 70 picks/inch, and a fabric width of 145 cm.

The grey fabric was dipped in water at 25° C. for about 5 seconds anddehydrated by a dehydrator at a pick-up of 72%. Then, the fabric wascontinuously subjected to a narrowing heat treatment in a pin tenter ata narrowing ratio of 7% relative to the as-woven fabric under thecondition of 150° C./30 seconds. Thereafter, the fabric was scoured,dyed and resin-treated under the same-condition as in Example 35 toresult in a lining cloth.

Example 37

A grey fabric of a plain weave was woven from warp and filling yarns ofdiacetate filamentary yarn of 75d/20f, which had a warp density of 103ends/inch, a filling density of 80 picks/inch, and a fabric width of132.0 cm.

The grey fabric was dipped in water at 25° C. for about 5 seconds anddehydrated by a dehydrator at a pick-up of 40%. Then, the fabric wascontinuously subjected to a narrowing heat treatment in a pin tenter ata narrowing ratio of 7% relative to the as-woven fabric under thecondition of 190° C./30 seconds. Thereafter, the fabric was scouredunder the condition described in Table 3, dyed under the conditiondescribed in Table 12, and finished under the condition described inTable 2 to result in a lining cloth.

TABLE 12 dyeing method jigger dyeing method dye C.I Disperse Blue 291 of1% owf auxiliary Disper TL of 1 g/l temperature 95° C. time one hour

Example 38

The same process was repeated as in Example 32, except that the warpdensity was 150 ends/inch, to result in a lining cloth.

Example 39

The same process was repeated as in Example 32, except that thenarrowing ratio was 12%, to result in a lining cloth.

Example 40

The same process was repeated as in Example 32, except that thenarrowing ratio was 5%, to result in a lining cloth.

Comparative Example 18

The grey fabric obtained from Example 32 was narrowed in width by a pintenter at a narrowing ratio of 7% under the condition of 190° C./30seconds.

Other conditions-were the same as in Example 32 to result in a liningcloth.

Comparative example 19

The same process as in Example 32 was repeated, except that thenarrowing ratio was 4%, to result in a lining cloth.

Comparative Example 20

The same process as in Example 32 was repeated, except that thenarrowing ratio was 17%, to result in a lining cloth.

Table 13 shows an elongation, a coefficient of dynamic friction, afilling yarn crimp index value (crimp ratio/{warp density×(warpfineness)^(1/2)}, a seam slippage, an appearance, a touch, a bendingrigidity, a wear comfort and a wearing pressure of the lining clothsobtained from Examples 32 to 40 and Comparative examples 18 to 20.

TABLE 13 PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF LINING CLOTH OF PLAIN WEAVE COMPOSED OFCELLULOSIC FILAMENTARY FILLING YARNS Crimp Filling Coeffi- Weave Ratio +wise cient density {(warp Bending Seam elonga- of warp/filling Crimpdensity) × rigidity slip- Wearing Surface tion dynamic (ends or ratio(warp end (gf·cm²/ page pressure Wearing appear- Fabric (%) frictionpicks/inch) (%) denier)^(1/2)} cm) (mm) (g/cm²) comfort ance touchExamples 32 7.8 0.23 138/83 7.5 0.007 0.026 1.0 33 ⊚ ⊚ ⊚ 33 7.2 0.24118/71 7.0 0.007 0.027 0.7 33 ⊚ ⊚ ◯ 34 9.0 0.29 141/84 8.7 0.008 0.0270.9 31 ⊚ ◯ ◯ 35 8.0 0.31 136/85 7.7 0.008 0.028 0.8 31 ⊚ ⊚ ⊚ 36 7.6 0.35118/72 7.3 0.007 0.029 0.8 32 ⊚ ⊚ ◯ 37 8.5 0.37 110/82 8.3 0.008 0.0250.6 30 ⊚ ⊚ ◯ 38 5.5 0.23 161/83 5.1 0.004 0.029 1.5 35 ◯ ⊚ ◯ 39 9.9 0.25153/84 9.7 0.009 0.024 0.3 28 ⊚ ◯ ⊚ 40 5.2 0.22 135/85 4.9 0.005 0.0291.7 36 ◯ ⊚ ⊚ Compara- 18 2.1 0.21 132/86 1.8 0.002 0.037 7.0 48 x ⊚smooth Δ fairly tive Rising-up of hem    harsh Examples Crease occurredduring preparation 19 4.2 0.22 134/85 3.5 0.004 0.036 5.5 45 x ⊚ smoothΔ slightly Rising-up of hem    harsh 20 10.8 0.40 146/84 10.1 0.0090.021 Usable to mass-produce because of occurrence of warp-wise creaseand weft bow, poor quality

As apparent from Table 13, the lining cloths according to the presentinvention are superior in seam slippage, smaller in a coefficient ofdynamic friction, and improved in slipperiness compared to Comparativeexamples. These lining cloths are also excellent in a dimensionalstability and a resistance to creases even after being domesticallylaundered.

Examples 41 to 47 and Comparative examples 21 to 23 described belowrelate to a lining cloth of a twill weave (2/1 rising twill) using acellulosic filamentary yarn as a filling yarns.

Example 41

A grey fabric of a twill weave was woven from warp yarns ofcupra-ammonium rayon filamentary yarn of 50d/30f and filling yarns ofcupra-ammonium filamentary yarn of 75d/45f, which has a warp density of166 ends/inch, a filling density of 82 picks/inch, and a fabric width of145 cm.

The grey fabric was dipped in water at 25° C. for about 5 seconds anddehydrated by a dehydrator at a pick-up of 65%. Then, the fabric wascontinuously subjected to a narrowing heat treatment in a pin tenter ata narrowing ratio of 7% relative to the as-woven fabric under thecondition of 190° C./30 seconds.

Thereafter, the fabric was scoured by an open soaper type continuousscouring apparatus under the conditions described in Table 3, dyed underthe conditions described in Table 11, and resin-treated under theconditions described in Table 6 to result in a lining cloth.

Example 42

A grey fabric of a twill weave was woven from warp yarns ofcupra-ammonium rayon filamentary yarn of 56d/30f and filling yarns ofcupra-ammonium filamentary yarn of 75d/45f, which had a warp density of180 ends/inch, a filling density of 82 picks/inch, and a fabric width of145 cm.

The grey fabric was dipped in water at 25° C. for about 5 seconds anddehydrated by a dehydrator at a pick-up of 65%. Then, the fabric wascontinuously subjected to a narrowing heat treatment in a pin tenter ata narrowing ratio of 7% relative to as-woven grey fabric under thecondition of 170° C./30 seconds. Thereafter, the fabric was scoured,dyed and resin-treated under the same condition as in Example 41 toresult in a lining cloth.

Example 43

A grey fabric of a twill weave was woven from warp yarns ofcupra-ammonium rayon filamentary yarn of 75d/45f and filling yarns ofcupra-ammonium filamentary yarn of 100d/60f, which had a warp density of136 ends/inch, a filling density of 70 picks/inch, and a fabric width of142 cm.

The grey fabric was dipped in water at 25° C. for about 5 seconds anddehydrated by a dehydrator at a pick-up of 65%. Then, the fabric wascontinuously subjected to a narrowing heat treatment in a pin tenter ata narrowing ratio of 10% relative to the as-woven fabric under thecondition of 200° C./30 seconds. Thereafter, the fabric was scoured,dyed and resin-treated under the same condition as in Example 41 toresult in a lining cloth.

Example 44

A grey fabric of a twill weave was woven from warp yarns of polyesterfilamentary yarn (of triangular cross-section) of 50d/36f and fillingyarns of cupra-ammonium filamentary yarn of 120d/72f, which has a warpdensity of 146 ends/inch, a filling density of 65 picks/inch, and afabric width of 145 cm.

The grey fabric was dipped in water at 25° C. for about 5 seconds anddehydrated by a dehydrator at a pick-up of 52%. Then, the fabric wascontinuously subjected to a narrowing heat treatment in a pin tenter ata narrowing ratio of 13% relative to the as-woven fabric under thecondition of 190° C./30 seconds. Thereafter, the fabric was scoured inan open soaper type continuous scouring apparatus under the conditiondescribed in Table 3, dyed under the condition described in Table 5, andresin-treated under the conditions described in Table 6 to result in alining cloth.

Example 45

A grey fabric of a twill weave was woven from warp yarns of viscoserayon filamentary yarn of 50d/20f and filling yarns of viscose rayonfilamentary yarn of 75d/33f, which had a warp density of 120 ends/inch,a filling density of 82 picks/inch, and a fabric width of 145 cm. Thegrey fabric was dipped in water at 25° C. for about 5 seconds anddehydrated by a dehydrator at a pick-up of 71%. Then, the fabric wascontinuously subjected to a narrowing heat treatment in a pin tenter ata narrowing ratio of 13% relative to the as-woven fabric under thecondition of 190° C./30 seconds. Thereafter, the fabric was scoured,dyed and resin-treated under the same conditions as in Example 41 toresult in a lining cloth.

Example 46

A grey fabric of a twill weave was woven from warp yarns of viscoserayon filamentary yarn of 75d/33f and filling yarns of viscose rayonfilamentary yarn of 100d/44f, which had a warp density of 136 ends/inch,a filling density of 71 picks/inch, and a fabric width of 145 cm.

The grey fabric was dipped in water at 25° C. for about 5 seconds anddehydrated by a dehydrator at a pick-up of 65%. Then, the fabric wascontinuously subjected to a narrowing heat treatment in a pin tenter ata narrowing ratio of 7% relative to the as-woven fabric under thecondition of 140° C./120 seconds. Thereafter, the fabric was scoured,dyed and resin-treated under the same condition as in Example 45 toresult in a lining cloth.

Example 47

The same process was repeated as in Example 41, except that thenarrowing ratio was 12% to result in a lining cloth.

Comparative Example 21

The grey fabric obtained from Example 41 was continuously subjected to anarrowing heat treatment in a pin tenter at a narrowing ratio of 7%relative to the as-woven fabric under the condition of 190° C./30seconds. Other conditions were the same as in Example 41.

Comparative Example 22

The same process was repeated as in Example 41, except that thenarrowing ratio was 4% to result in a lining cloth.

Comparative Example 23

The same process was repeated as in Example 41, except that thenarrowing ratio was 17% to result in a lining cloth.

Table 14 shows an elongation, a coefficient of dynamic friction, a crimpindex value of the filling yarn (crimp ratio/{warp density×(fineness ofwarp yarn)^(1/2)}, a seam slippage, an appearance, a touch, a bondingrigidity, a wear comfort and a wearing pressure of the lining clothsobtained from Examples 41 to 47 and Comparative Examples 21 to 23.

TABLE 14 PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF LINING CLOTH OF TWILL WEAVE COMPOSED OFCELLULOSIC FILAMENTARY FILLING YARNS Crimp Filling Coeffi- Weave Ratio +wise cient density {(warp Bending Seam elonga- of warp/filling Crimpdensity) × rigidity slip- Wearing tion dynamic (ends or ratio (warp end(gf·cm²/ page pressure Wearing Surface Fabric (%) friction picks/inch)(%) denier)^(1/2)} cm) (mm) (g/cm²) comfort appearance touch Examples 416.5 0.23 178/85 6.2 0.005 0.026 0.8 33 ⊚ ⊚ ⊚ 42 5.2 0.22 193/84 4.80.003 0.028 1.5 35 ⊚ ⊚ ◯ 43 7.9 0.25 151/72 7.6 0.006 0.024 0.7 30 ⊚ ⊚ ⊚44 9.5 0.26 165/66 9.5 0.008 0.023 0.6 31 ⊚ ⊚ ◯ 45 11.4 0.28 137/85 11.10.011 0.023 0.5 29 ◯ ◯ ⊚ 46 7.1 0.26 146/72 6.9 0.005 0.027 0.8 32 ⊚ ⊚ ◯47 9.0 0.26 184/84 8.7 0.006 0.024 0.7 31 ⊚ ⊚ ⊚ Compara- 21 2.0 0.22169/82 1.9 0.002 0.042 6.5 48 x ⊚ smooth Δ fairly tive Rising-up of hem   harsh Examples 22 3.4 0.23 172/83 3.0 0.002 0.039 7.5 45 x ⊚ smooth Δfairly Rising-up hem    harsh 23 10.1 0.31 185/84 9.4 0.007 0.020 Poorlyproduced because of occurrence of crease and weft bow, poor quality

As is apparent from Table 14, the lining cloths according to the presentinvention are superior in the seam slippage, lower in a coefficient ofdynamic friction and excellent in surface slipperiness compared toComparative Examples.

Examples 48 to 53 described below relate to a lining cloth of a satinweave using a false-twisted polyester filamentary yarn, a raw polyesterfilamentary yarn and a cellulosic filamentary yarn as a filling yarn.The respective satin were of satin weave of three steps in the warp-wisedirection and five steps in the filling-wise direction.

Example 48

A grey fabric of a satin weave was woven from warp yarns of rawpolyethylene terephthalate filamentary yarn of 50d/24f and filling yarnsof false-twisted polyethylene terephthalate filamentary yarn of asingle-heater type of 75d/36f (the number of false-twist of 3300 T/M, aheater temperature of 220° C.), which had a warp density of 250end/inch, a filling density of 85 picks/inch, and a fabric width of123.0 cm.

The grey fabric was narrowed in width by 7% relative to the as-wovenfabric in a pin tenter under the conditions of 190° C.×30 seconds. Then,the fabric was scoured in an open soaper type continuous scouringapparatus under the conditions described in Table 3.

Thereafter, the fabric was dyed by a liquid-stream type dyeing machineunder the condition described in Table 1, reduced and rinsed for thepurpose of removing an excessive dye and dried to result in a liningcloth of a satin weave.

Example 49

The same process was repeated as in Example 48, except that thenarrowing ratio is 13% to result in a lining cloth.

Example 50

A grey fabric of a satin weave was woven from warp yarns of polyesterfilamentary yarn (sheath-core type antistatic yarn) of 50d/24f andfilling yarns of raw polyester filamentary yarn having a W-shapedcross-section of 50d/30f, which has a warp density of 210 ends/inch, afilling density of 100 picks/inch, and a fabric width of 145 cm. Thefilling yarn of a W-shaped cross-section has a ratio between a longerdiameter and a shorter diameter of 3:1. A crimp ratio of the fillingyarn in the grey fabric was 3.6%.

The grey fabric was narrowed in width by 15% relative to the as-wovenfabric in a pin tenter under the condition of 190° C./30 seconds. Then,the fabric was scoured in an open soaper type continuous scouringapparatus under the condition described in Table 3. Thereafter, thefabric was dyed in a liquid-stream type dyeing machine under theconditions described in Table 1, then reduced and rinsed for the purposeof removing excessive dye, and dried. Finally, the fabric was finishedunder the condition described in Table 2 to result in a lining cloth ofa satin weave.

Example 51

The same process was repeated as in Example 50, except that thenarrowing ratio was 20% to result in a lining cloth.

Example 52

A grey fabric of a satin weave was woven from warp yarns ofcupra-ammonium rayon filamentary yarn of 75d/45f and filling yarns ofcupra-ammonium rayon filamentary yarn having of 50d/30f, which has awarp density of 160 ends/inch, a filling density of 100 ends/inch, and afabric width of 142 cm.

The grey fabric was dipped in water at 25° C. for about 5 seconds,dehydrated by a dehydrator at a pick-up 68%, and continuously narrowedin width by 7% relative to the as-woven fabric in a pin tenter under theconditions of 190° C./30 seconds. Then, the fabric was scoured in anopen soaper type continuous scouring apparatus under the conditionsdescribed in Table 3, and dyed in a liquid-stream type dyeing machineunder the condition described in Table 11. Thereafter, the fabric wasresin-treated under the condition described in Table 6 to result in alining cloth of a satin weave.

Example 53

The same process was repeated as in Example 52, except that thenarrowing ratio is 13% to result in a lining cloth.

Table 15 shows an elongation, a coefficient of dynamic friction, a crimpindex value of the filling yarn (crimp ratio/{warp density×(fineness ofwarp yarn)^(1/2)}, a seam slippage, an appearance, a touch, a bendingrigidity, a wear comfort and a wearing pressure of the lining clothsobtained from Examples 48 to 53.

TABLE 15 PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF LINING CLOTH OF STAIN WEAVE CrimpFilling Coeffi- Weave Ratio + wise cient density {(warp Bending Seamelonga- of warp/filling Crimp density) × rigidity slip- Wearing tiondynamic (ends or ratio (warp end (gf·cm²/ page pressure Wearing SurfaceFabric (%) friction picks/inch) (%) denier)^(1/2)} cm) (mm) (g/cm²)comfort appearance touch Examples 46 5.8 0.20 263/87  5.7 0.003 0.0250.9 35 ⊚ ⊚ ◯ 49 9.8 0.21 283/87  9.7 0.005 0.022 0.6 31 ◯ ⊚ ◯ 50 6.80.25 242/106 6.5 0.004 0.013 0.7 32 ⊚ ⊚ ⊚ 51 7.8 0.24 250/105 7.5 0.0040.011 0.3 30 ⊚ ⊚ ◯ 52 6.5 0.20 170/108 6.2 0.004 0.028 0.5 29 ⊚ ⊚ ⊚ 537.5 0.21 179/107 7.2 0.005 0.027 0.4 31 ⊚ ⊚ ⊚

As is apparent from Table 15, the lining cloths according to the presentinvention are superior in seam slippage, lower in a coefficient ofdynamic friction and excellent in surface slipperiness compared toComparative examples.

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY

According to the present invention, an expandable lining cloth isprovided from a fabric woven from polyester filamentary yarns,cellulosic filamentary, yarns and the mixture thereof, having anelasticity capable of following up the extension/contraction of theouter cloth of a dress. The lining cloth is also resistant to seamslippage and the riding-up of a skirt, free from wearing pressure, softin touch, and excellent in slipperiness and wear comfort.

What is claimed is:
 1. A lining cloth of a woven fabric in which thewarp yarn comprises either polyester filamentary yarn or cellulosicfilamentary yarn and the filling yarn comprises a false-twistedpolyester filamentary yarn, a raw filamentary yarn or a cellulosicfilamentary yarn, characterized in that an elongation in thefilling-wise direction of the woven fabric is in a range from 5% to 12%,a coefficient of dynamic friction on the surface of the woven fabric isin a range from 0.20 to 0.45, and a filling-wise crimp index value ofthe woven fabric as defined by the following formula is in a range from0.003 to 0.013: Crimp ratio of filling yarn/{warp density×(warpfineness)^(1/2)}.
 2. A lining cloth according to claim 1, characterizedin that the woven fabric is of a plain weave, the coefficient of dynamicfriction of the surface of the woven fabric is in a range from 0.22 to0.45, and the value obtained from the formula (1) is in a range from0.004 to 0.013.
 3. A lining cloth according to claim 1, characterized inthat the woven fabric is of a twill weave, the coefficient of dynamicfriction of the surface of the woven fabric is in a range from 0.20 to0.38, and the value obtained from the formula (1) is in a range from0.003 to 0.011.
 4. A lining cloth according to claim 1, characterized inthat the woven fabric is of a satin weave, the coefficient of dynamicfriction of the surface of the woven fabric is in a range from 0.20 to0.35, and the value obtained from the formula (1) is in a range from0.003 to 0.009.
 5. A lining cloth according to claim 1, characterized inthat the filling-wise bending rigidity of the woven fabric is 0.030gf·cm²/cm or less.
 6. A lining cloth according to claim 1, characterizedin that the filling-wise bending rigidity of the woven fabric comprisingfilling yarn comprising false-twisted polyester filamentary yarns is0.025 gf·cm²/cm or less.
 7. A lining cloth according to claim 1,characterized in that the filling-wise bending rigidity of the wovenfabric composed of the filling yarn comprising raw polyester filamentaryyarns is 0.020 gf·cm²/cm or less.
 8. A dress to which the lining clothaccording to claim 1 is attached.
 9. A method for producing the liningcloth of a woven fabric in which the warp yarn comprises eitherpolyester filamentary yarn or cellulosic filamentary yarn and thefilling yarn comprises a raw filamentary yarn, characterized in that anelongation in the filling-wise direction of the woven fabric is in arange of from 5% to 12%, a coefficient of dynamic friction on thesurface of the woven fabric is in a range from 0.20 to 0.45, or afilling wise crimp index value of the woven fabric as defined by thefollowing formula is in a range from 0.03 to 0.13 Crimp ratio of fillingyarn/{warp density×(warp fineness)^(1/2)}, the process characterized inthat grey fabric, composed of the weft yarns comprising a polyesterfilamentary yarn or cellulosic filamentary yarn and the filling yarnscomprising a raw polyester filamentary yarn, the crimp ratio of thefilling yarn of 1.5% or more in the grey fabric, is heat treated at atemperature in a range from 160 to 210° C. prior to scouring while beingnarrowed in width by 5 to 30% relative to the width of the grey fabric.10. A method for producing the lining cloth of a woven fabric in whichthe warp yarn comprises either polyester filamentary yarn or cellulosicfilamentary yarn and the filling yarn comprises a false-twistedfilamentary yarn, characterized in that an elongation in thefilling-wise direction of the woven fabric is in a rage from 5% to 12%,a coefficient of dynamic friction on the surface of the woven fabric isin a range from 0.20 to 0.45, and a filling wise crimp index value ofthe woven fabric as defined by the following formula is in a range from0.03 to 0.13 Crimp ratio of filling yarn/{warp density×(warpfineness)^(1/2)}, the process characterized in that grey fabric,composed of the warp yarns comprising polyester filamentary yarn and thefilling yarns consisting of a false-twisted polyester filamentary yarnis heat treated at a temperature in a range from 160 to 210° C. prior toscouring or after being scoured at a temperature of from 40 to 60° C.while being narrowed in width by 5 to 15% relative to the width of thegrey fabric.
 11. A method for producing the lining cloth of a wovenfabric in which the warp yarn comprises either polyester filamentaryyarn or cellulosic filamentary yarn and the filling yarn comprises acellulosic raw filamentary yarn, characterized in that an elongation inthe filling-wise direction of the woven fabric is in a range from 5% to12%, a coefficient of dynamic friction on the surface of the wovenfabric is in a range from 0.20 to 0.45, and a filling wise crimp indexvalue of the woven fabric as defined by the following formula is in arange from 0.03 to 0.013 Crimp ratio of filling yarn/{warp density×(warpfineness)^(1/2)}, the process characterized in that grey fabric,composed of the warp yarns comprising a filamentary polyester yarn or acellulosic filamentary yarn and the filling yarns comprising acellulosic filamentary yarn is heat-treated, after being dipped inwater, at a temperature in a range from 100 to 210° C. while beingnarrowed in width by 5 to 15% relative to the width of the grey fabric.12. A method for producing the lining cloth of a woven fabric in whichthe warp yarn comprises either polyester filamentary yarn or cellulosicfilamentary yarn and the filling yarn comprises a cellulose acetatefilamentary yarn, characterized in that an elongation in thefilling-wise direction of the woven fabric is in a range from 5% to 12%,a coefficient of dynamic friction on the surface of the woven fabric isin a range from 0.20 to 0.45, and a filling wise crimp index value ofthe woven fabric as defined by the following formula is in a range from0.03 to 0.013 Crimp ratio of filling yarn/{warp density×(warpfineness)^(1/2)}, the method characterized in that grey fabric, composedof the warp yarns comprising a filamentary polyester yarn or acellulosic filamentary yarn and the filling yarns comprising a celluloseacetate filamentary yarn is heat-treated at a temperature in a rangefrom 160 to 210° C. prior to scouring while being narrowed in width by 5to 15% relative to the width of the grey fabric.